When I first heard that chicken tikka masala was a Scottish dish, I laughed at the idea. But when I found myself in Scotland, I had to try it.
Established in 1964, Shish Mahal in Glasgow, Scotland, claims to be the birthplace of chicken tikka masala, credited to Chef Ali Ahmed Aslam. The story goes back to the 1960s: When a customer found his chicken tikka too dry, Aslam added a creamy tomato sauce to it and created the legendary dish.
The chicken tikka (without the sauce/masala) was excellent. Things felt as though they were on the right track when I was offered, without having to ask for some extra green chillies.
I overheard an exchange between the restaurant staff and an older gentleman who was advised to have the “very mild” version of the dish, as opposed to my three chillies.
My “extra spicy” dish ended up being quite mild by Indian standards. It was a reminder that no matter how “authentic” the food was, it was designed specifically for the British palate. But chicken tikka masala doesn’t align with other Scottish dishes like haggis, fish and chips, or savoury pies; it didn’t quite taste desi either. It was a thing of its own, a spot of exotic colour in the local cuisine.
Apart from chicken tikka, India and Scotland also have UNESCO World Heritage sites in common.
Hailing from Jaipur, which was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage City in 2019, I felt a certain excitement visiting another place with that tag.
Walk down Edinburgh Lane
The Old and New Towns of Edinburgh carry that distinct air about them that can be felt almost immediately when walking through the city.
The walk from the train station to Edinburgh Castle felt almost cinematic—narrow medieval alleyways, gothic architecture, and a sense of history in every turn. The city felt clean and easy to walk through, with most people on foot—quite different from the broken pavements in Rajasthan’s capital, where stepping out of vehicles is often the last preference.
The only resemblance was the various souvenir shops on the way to the castle, drawing tourists in, much like the sellers of local crafts on the way to Jaipur’s Hawa Mahal. If you are a Harry Potter fan, Edinburgh has its own charm, there are witchcraft-themed shops, and it is often said that the city inspired author JK Rowling while writing the books.
What was really fascinating, though, were the people—warm, welcoming, and open to conversations, quite different from the image I had of Scots being distant or cold. In some ways, it reminded me of home.
At the same time, there were differences. There were no aggressive shopkeepers desperately trying to force one to buy something. Instead, one could walk in, look around, and take one’s time.
People from all over the world, including me, are drawn to this UNESCO heritage site. I wasn’t expecting a 600-year-old castle to be in such remarkable condition. It made sense why it is one of the most-visited castles in Britain.
And yet, while taking it all in, I couldn’t help but think of home. Of visiting Hawa Mahal and seeing walls marked with people’s names, despite clear warnings. Of small corners stained with paan. The contrast was hard to ignore.
We speak about nationalism, about community. But what do these words mean if they do not translate into how we treat what belongs to us—our heritage, our surroundings, and our shared spaces?
In the midst of this, I learned that UNESCO had warned of reconsidering Jaipur’s World Heritage status. If even that recognition is not enough to make us protect what we have, then what will?
Jaipur is not the only city in India facing this. Ahmedabad has also come under scrutiny from UNESCO. The reasons are not very different—irregular development, new construction, expansion within and outside the city. Over time, around 400 historic havelis (mansions) and many other structures have been demolished in Jaipur.
It’s clear that the government is falling short when it comes to preserving our heritage. Centre and the state government alike don’t show a clear, consistent commitment.
Is it really this difficult? How are other places managing to do it so well?
In Scotland, preservation is not just a policy, but something people actively care about.
With protests against developments seen as harmful, the City of Edinburgh Council has used its planning process to reject projects that don’t fit the “character of the city”.
Even the Scottish Government has stepped in at times, such as rejecting the proposal to turn the Old Royal High School into a luxury hotel, saying that it would damage the historic setting.
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The Scottish colonial mindset
Apart from the distinct pleasure the Scots took in preserving their heritage, another facet of their history became clearer. As an Indian, it was strange to see how deeply involved the Scots were in the East India Company and in building the British Empire in India, while also being run and dominated by the English crown.
Even today, that strain is visible. Unlike in London, you rarely see the British flag here. The idea of Scottish independence is very much alive—according to polls, a significant part of the population would prefer Scotland to be independent from the United Kingdom.
Walking through Edinburgh Castle, I saw objects linked to Tipu Sultan—his weapons and items from his treasury. And it left me wondering, how a country that once saw itself as marginalised by English dominance comes to terms with being part of something like the colonial project in India?
Colonialism is certainly a part of this story. The magnificent buildings of Edinburgh were built, at least partially, by profits extracted from India.
We’ve heard ad nauseam that we lack the resources to protect our heritage, that colonisation left us too depleted to do much about it. But it must be said: It’s been more than 75 years of Independence, how long will we use such excuses?
What I saw in these streets was not just resources but also care. People who cared, almost to a pedantic level, to live in a beautiful city, that was architecturally unified and well-maintained. People willing to spend their precious time discussing and debating how their city looked, mobilising for it, even fighting powerful interests wanting to despoil it if necessary. People who weren’t satisfied with just having a beautiful home for their own families but also wanted to create a beautiful public space for all.
I am not sure I will be taking home the recipe for the chicken tikka masala. It is something best enjoyed in Scotland and Scotland only. But I will carry the commitment, care and willingness to preserve our heritage in my backpack. It is something we should no longer just admire from afar, but practice at home.
Amana Begam Ansari is a columnist, writer, and TV news panellist. She runs a weekly YouTube show called ‘India This Week by Amana and Khalid’. She tweets @Amana_Ansari. Views are personal.
(Edited by Insha Jalil Waziri)