First we lost Saraswati River. Now we are losing archaeological sites along Ghaggar too

Whether due to hypocrisy or sheer ignorance, the archaeological heritage of the Saraswati River system is rapidly vanishing. The glorious past we keep referring to will be lost forever.

Modern-day temple on an unprotected archaeological site, which is completely destroyed | Photo: Disha Ahluwalia/ThePrint

The mystery surrounding the lost River Saraswati has intrigued scholars for more than two centuries, prompting numerous investigations. Their efforts aimed to identify the Saraswati River and its major distributaries, and map them accurately to understand the evolutionary aspects of the river system. Over two centuries of scientific and geomorphological studies, when juxtaposed with archaeological data from explorations in the 1940s and 1950s, have helped establish the significance of the Saraswati River system in the region’s civilisational development.

Described as one of the most powerful rivers in the Rig Veda and the epic Mahabharata, Saraswati originated from the Bandarpunch glacier in Garhwal, flowing past Adi Badri and traversing Punjab, Haryana, and Rajasthan before reaching the sea at the Gulf of Khambhat in Gujarat around 28000 years ago. Scientific data and new evidence converge on the understanding that between 3000 and 2000 BCE (about 4,000 years ago), the river’s demise began when Sutlej diverted from the present-day Ghaggar-Hakra valley to join the river Beas. By around 3792 BP (c.1800 BCE), the river had completely dried up.

This scientific evidence, when corroborated with archaeological data, offers a fresh perspective on the historical significance of the river system.

Despite various politically driven narratives, there is undeniable evidence of a major river’s existence some 28,000 years ago, which served as a powerful conduit between the Indus River system in the west and the Ganga River system in the east. Today, remnants of the Saraswati River are represented by the Ghaggar-Hakra river, flowing along the paleochannel of the former in the north-western part of Haryana and Rajasthan, extending into the Bahawalpur region of Pakistan.

Raged archaeological site on the banks of Ghaggar | Photo: Disha Ahluwalia/ThePrint

The drying up and disappearance of the river have gained popular attention, generating interest in its potential revival in the 21st century, thousands of years after its disappearance. Many state governments and agencies are working on reviving the ancient Saraswati river system, which has given birth to civilisations. However, it is very disappointing to see that absolutely nothing is being done to protect the ultimate markers of this glorious past – the archaeological sites on the dried banks of the Saraswati River. Whether due to hypocrisy or sheer ignorance, the archaeological heritage of this river system is rapidly vanishing. Although technology and science can bring the river back to life, the glorious past we keep referring to will be lost forever.

Early surveys

In 1829, Lieutenant Colonel James Todd published the famous ‘Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan,’ providing a comprehensive history of Rajasthan through bardic tales and historical records. This was the first historical account of Rajasthan, which highlighted the prehistoric past of the Rajputana region. However, the focus on the archaeological heritage of this region was brought about by Luigi Pio Tessitori, an Italian explorer who, like Todd, took up the task to record the chronicles of the Jodhpur and Bikaner regions. Tessitori’s love for the ‘lore of Rajasthan’ led him to join the Archaeological Survey of India under its director-general John Marshall (1902-1928), where he documented folk traditions, ancient inscriptions, and, most importantly, archaeological mounds in the Bikaner princely state.

In 1918, while surveying the area, Tessitori observed a series of ancient ‘theris’ (mounds) along the dry bed of the Ghaggar. He mentioned sites on both sides of the river, including some on the Ghaggar’s dry bed. His list included significant sites such as Kalibangan, Pilibangan, Baror, and Binjor, which underwent large-scale scientific excavations in later decades.

Baror, a major Harappan site that the ASI excavated in the early 2000s, has become a victim of rapid encroachment and construction on the mound.

After Tessatori, German explorer Auriel Stein, who is credited with exploring Iran and Central Asia, explored the states of Bikaner and Bahawalpur in 1940-41. He covered 150 miles along the dry bed of Ghaggar and reported 40 archaeological sites in each region. According to him, these sites yielded painted and relief decorated pottery spanning from the early historic period to the Kushana period, linked to a type-site in the region known locally as Rangmahal.

Between Hanumangarh district and Suratgarh tehsil (Sri Ganganagar district), Stein visited sites on the northern and southern Ghaggar canals. Archaeological remains at Bhadrakali temple, Munda, Fatehgarh, Pilibangan, Kalibangan, and Rangmahal were some of the important sites.

Independent India’s first exploration

Despite these early explorations, the archaeological perspective and historical depth of the region remained limited until 1951 when A Ghosh, the director-general of a reformed Archaeological Survey of India, led his team to explore the  Bikaner region along the dry bed of the Ghaggar.

Using clues left by Tessatori and Stein, Ghosh explored the lower part of the Drishadvati valley and beyond the Ghaggar valley to the border of Pakistan, adding more than a hundred sites from the Harappan, Painted Grey Ware, and Kushana periods.

More than 25 mounds of Harappan culture, 20 ‘grey ware’, and over 20 historical sites were noted. Ghosh also undertook excavations at four sites—Tarkhanwala Dera (Harappan site), Chak 86 GB (Painted Grey Ware site), Chak 40 GB (Painted Grey Ware and Early Historic period), and Rer (Painted Grey Ware and Early Historic period).

Chak 87 GB was excavated by the author in an attempt to salvage the remains. The site will soon disappear | Photo: Disha Ahluwalia/ThePrint

These excavations gave the first clue about the archaeology of the region. Excavation of Tarkhanwala Dera and Chak 86GB cleared a lot about the Harappan and Painted Grey Ware culture’s identity, unlike sites in Haryana and Punjab that only showed an overlap between the two without any contact or connection. The excavations also gave enough clues about the Early Historic period in the region, which resulted in the excavation of Rangmahal by Hanna Rydh in the 1960s.

Tarkhanwala Dera, which archaeologist A Ghosh excavated in 1951 before ASI undertook an extensive excavation in 2009, has disappeared completely.

Following Ghosh’s lead, Katty Dalal also surveyed the region in 1967-70 and undertook trial digging at Binjor 3, which yielded Harappan deposit. The site of Binjor (4MSR) was later excavated in 2014-17 by Sanjay Manjul of the Archaeological Survey of India. Similarly, Chak 86 GB and Tarkhanwala Dera were also excavated by the Archaeological Survey of India in 2009.

Disappearing heritage in 2024

These early surveys have given valuable information about the archaeology of the land that was the cradle of many archaeological cultures, spread over millennia. However, after working in the region since 2014, I have noted a rapid disappearance of sites. Tarkhanwala Dera, which Ghosh excavated in 1951 before the ASI undertook an extensive excavation in 2009, has disappeared completely. Illegal encroachments, such as brick kilns, lead to the destruction of an important Harappan settlement. What is unfortunate is that the site was protected under the ASI’s jurisdiction.

Similarly, a major Harappan site in the area – Baror – which was excavated by the ASI in the early 2000s, has also become a victim of rapid encroachment and construction on the mound.

The protected archaeological site at Baror with modern (illegal) construction on top of the mound | Photo: Disha Ahluwalia/ThePrint

If this is the state of protected sites, one can imagine the situation of unprotected ones that are not under the state’s jurisdiction. The sad reality is that over 60 per cent of the sites reported in the early surveys are now lost. The sites are largely neglected by local authorities and the state/centre hardly have resources to protect them. Lack of awareness among local residents has also led to the destruction of these sites. Sites like Rer, which Ghosh investigated, is also being slowly encroached upon.

With each survey every year, I see the death of at least one site and find solace in those that have been salvaged. Sanjay Manjul of the ASI salvaged four sites while overseeing an extensive excavation. This operation has resulted in collecting data from our past heritage, which is lost. We should aim for similar excavations before the sites are lost. Since we can’t protect them, at least we should salvage the remains.

Disha Ahluwalia is an archaeologist and junior research fellow at the Indian Council Of Historical Research. She tweets @ahluwaliadisha. Views are personal.

(Edited by Prashant)