My first memory of India comes from my grandfather. A geographer by profession, he traveled extensively, and whenever he returned home, he would share stories of his adventures in the countries he had been fortunate enough to visit with the whole family.
I still remember—although I was only six or seven—listening wide-eyed to his fascinating tales about an ancient land of wise, smiling people, where elephants wandered the streets and monkeys climbed the trees. He used to tell us that whenever he left the Taj Mahal, he felt as though he were saying goodbye to something truly dear to his heart—almost as if he were leaving home.
Nearly 45 years later, I was fortunate enough to see for myself that he hadn’t exaggerated. In fact, before every visit to the Taj Mahal, I still worry that the monument might no longer have quite the same effect on me. Fortunately, that fear proves groundless every time.
Over the years, India gradually became a part of my life. The ties between Georgia and India stretch back centuries, and stories about India abound in our history and literature. Suffice it to say that Tariel, the hero of Shota Rustaveli’s 12th-century epic poem The Knight in the Panther’s Skin, is of Indian origin.
There were Indian fairy tales, too. And then, of course, there was Indian cinema: I will never forget the astonishment of Indian producers when, during a visit to Bollywood, I recited lines from Devdas by heart. As a reward, I had the privilege of visiting Shah Rukh Khan’s private dressing room – a moment I certainly did not anticipate as a child listening to my grandfather’s stories.
Discovering India for myself
I have now been living in Delhi for over two years, and I think it is safe to say that I have finally found my favorite place in the city. Fortunately, the embassy is just a stone’s throw from Lodhi Gardens — a considerable privilege in this megacity. I therefore make an effort to walk in this magnificent park every day. I even have a favorite tree there, although I shall keep its location a secret.
On my way back, I often stop at Raju’s stall for some coconut water; he grabs a coconut from his cart, slices off the top with a single stroke of his machete, and I pay using my phone — incredible India!
As for my travels across the country, recounting them all would require a book rather than an article. One of the most memorable experiences was undoubtedly our visit to the Maha Kumbh Mela. I took a dip at the confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna and Saraswati alongside a dozen ambassadors and 400 million pilgrims. The entire population of Georgia is around four million.
I will also never forget my weekend in Pushkar—where I traveled by train with nothing but a backpack to visit the only temple dedicated to Brahma. I returned with indelible impressions. I have a particularly fond memory of my conversation with Aloo Baba, who explained with great serenity that, despite our different religions, we are all made of the same flesh and blood.
It is, of course, impossible to convey every emotion I have felt or to describe every place I have been fortunate enough to visit: Jaipur, a city to which I am always happy to return; Kolkata and its distinctive cultural hubs; Chennai and its magnificent temples; timeless Varanasi; serene Pondicherry; cosmopolitan Hyderabad; innovative Bengaluru; and Assam with its breathtaking landscapes.
Then there are the national parks of Kaziranga or Ranthambore, with their pristine biodiversity and extraordinary wildlife. And there is Goa—with its tropical air and golden beaches—a place that shares a particularly special bond with Georgia. It is there that, together with our Indian partners and friends, we organize the annual Ketevan Music Festival, bringing Georgian music and culture to this remarkable part of India.
A few weeks ago, I travelled to Gwalior. In addition to its magnificent museums and palaces, I had the opportunity to admire the Chaturbhuj Temple, home to the oldest known inscription containing a symbol for zero. Truly, India never ceases to amaze.
I will soon return to Mumbai, a city of boundless energy, which has only one flaw – albeit a major one: its traffic.
Undoubtedly, nearly half a century after my grandfather first introduced me to India, I arrived in a country that was entirely different: modern, innovative and ever-evolving. Yet, some things have remained constant – the beauty of the land, the openness of its people and the depth of their hospitality.
I do not know how many more places I will visit. No one can see everything, and perhaps that is the point. India always leaves something undiscovered and unexpected – something that gives you a reason to return.
As for me, I will continue traveling, discovering and being surprised. After all, my original profession—like my grandfather’s—was geography.
The best, I am certain, is yet to come.
That is India!
Vakhtang Jaoshvili is the Ambassador of Georgia to India. Views are personal.
This article is part of Diplomatic Cable, a special series in which ambassadors and high commissioners in New Delhi share their experiences of India and introduce readers to the people, culture and traditions of their home countries. Read all the articles here.
(Edited by Prashant Dixit)