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HomeOpinionPoVThe big, fat Diwali hamper is now vegan, healthy, millet-based

The big, fat Diwali hamper is now vegan, healthy, millet-based

They used to say gifting was art, a skill. It's been retracted by this burgeoning breed of hampers.

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The Diwali hamper, malleable as it is, continues to thrive. It has become the perfect vehicle for India’s ‘soft power’. As dictated by the government, it is not just food-based – it is grain-based. This year was very loudly declared as the International Year of The Millet. It’s not just for birds. It’s nutritious, fuels brain power and is oriented toward the future –– food needs to be efficient, after all.

The festive season is for flamboyance and exhibitionism, and millets are depressingly functional. The two don’t fit. Even so, with shrewd marketing, the world comes to heel. Millets, in their 21st-century avatar, cater to an ever-growing bunch –– the maniacally busy, wealthy, and (often) vegetarian. They carry cultural capital and are often consumers of the overpriced and underthought Diwali hamper. The two were bound to converge. Gifting is still expensive, but it’s also more business-like. Millets are in their most consumer-friendly, functional form –– millet energy bars, cookies, lavash, trail mix –– accompanied by a cohort of newly-tempting tags like gluten-free, low-fat and vegan.

“India is observing 2023 as the year of millets,” an article by The Indian Express says seriously. G20 delegates were also treated to this millet frenzy, this time accompanied by brass teacups, and a ‘millet song’ featuring PM Modi secured a Grammy nomination.

There are also a number of vegan and healthy hampers on offer, created by both popular brands and more niche, ‘conscious’ companies. Diwali is an important season, and every brand enters the running. The hamper mania is all-encompassing. Far from restricted to just food, it’s a potential goldmine for skincare brands and home-décor outlets –– essentially everywhere people buy gifts from.


Also read: Diwali got better after I left home—Gol gappas, grocery dinners, long walks for ice cream


‘Box of Opulence’

At its worst, the Diwali hamper can be dreary and conventional; it’s an uncurated assortment of things you’d never need. At its best, it does more than take up space on the dining table.

But time is of the essence, curatorial skills are in short supply, and the thoughtless exchange of presents is a necessity.

The hamper really shines, however, in two avatars: the inane and the expensive. They used to say gifting was art, a skill. It’s been retracted by this burgeoning breed of hampers.

The ‘Coromandel Hamper’ by Taj Coromandel in Chennai is a buffet. There’s a lot of good stuff, even though you’re occasionally confused and mostly overwhelmed. Yet, it would be unfair to say the items on offer lack a common theme; all are expensive enough to be considered high-end luxury.  You’d never think that an iPhone belongs with imported avocado oil or that ‘exquisite’ homemade baklava can be paired with a Forest Essentials ‘grooming kit’. One might question what handmade almond rocks are. But it doesn’t matter. They all fulfil their roles. The hamper needs to be expensive, and they’re all worthy contributors. It costs Rs 5 lakh.

Four Seasons has a ‘Box of Opulence’ while JW Marriot has a ‘Coral Radiance’ hamper. Their price points aren’t as astronomical, probably due to the lack of an iPhone –– but nonetheless, it’s still an ‘exquisite’ smorgasbord of carefully photographed desserts, candles and ‘artisanal’ coffee.

ITC Royal Bengal and ITC Sonar have four signature hampers. The Festive Reserve Hamper, The Grand Curation, The Regal Assemblage and The Diamante Collection. The Shangri-la’s Royal Indulgence has a “sacred Ganesh-ji idol”, which, according to one website, is “resplendent and presides over a treasure trove of delights.” The delights, in this case, are oils, teas, and macaroons.

Their Shangtastic Casket takes it a step further and offers a necessary disclaimer: it’s crafted for connoisseurs.

(Edited by Zoya Bhatti)

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