Bangladeshi Muslims are building a 300-yr-old Kali temple. Now they want Modi’s help

In a Bangladesh that is increasingly witnessing communal violence, Basurdhuljhuri may serve to strengthen the country’s secular credentials.

Sasan Kali temple at Basurdhuljhuri village in Bangladesh’s Magura district. | Deep Halder

The 300-year-old Sasan Kali temple at Basurdhuljhuri village in Bangladesh’s Magura district — 176 km from Dhaka — was partly washed away in 2000 floods. Today, Muslims and Hindus have come together to rebuild it and want the Bangladesh and the Indian governments to help them.

In a Bangladesh that is increasingly witnessing communal violence, especially during Hindu festivities, Basurdhuljhuri serves to strengthen the country’s secular credentials.

Kali’s call

Every year this season, Dhaka-based political journalist Sahidul Hasan Khokon makes it a point to drive back to Basurdhuljhuri, his native village for Kali pujo at the 300-year-old temple. The entire village, along with the likes of Khokon who migrated to big cities, gather before Kali. Lakhs of devotees visit this non-descript temple every year with the belief that the goddess will grant them their wishes. This year will be different — the village and the devotees will offer back to the Kali. Khokon and his friends plan to form a committee to restore the temple to its original glory.

“There was a big flood in 2000 that washed away many houses in the village and destroyed a part of the temple. Villagers managed to save the Kali idol. Now, we plan to form a committee and formally appeal to both the Bangladesh and Indian government to help us build a proper temple in the village,” Khokon, 43, tells ThePrint.

Currently, the Kali resides in a one-storied brick structure with a tin roof and a grilled gate inside an empty patch of land. “It may look unappealing but every year during Kali pujo, lakhs of devotees not just from Basurdhuljhuri but all across Magura and beyond come here to offer prayers. Ma Kali doesn’t let any of her devotees leave empty handed. What they wish for comes true,” says Asim Ray, the village doctor, sitting in the courtyard of his house, a stone’s throw away from the temple.

There was no Kali pujo in 2001, the year after the flood. But the very next year, Muslim neighbours pooled in money and resources to help Hindus of the village construct a makeshift temple. “Our Hindu brothers and sisters believe the Kali idol is jagroto (alive) and we need to build her a proper temple,” says Khokon. Though Khokon has relocated to Dhaka, he had played a big role in getting funds to build the temple in 2001.

The Kali resides in a one-storied brick structure with a tin roof and a grilled gate inside an empty patch of land. | Deep Halder

Why Indian help

There is a reason why Ray and Khokon want to form a committee to appeal to the Modi government. The Indian government gives grants for development projects in Bangladesh in socio-cultural sectors, education and health care. In 2020, India took up a project for the reconstruction of a similar Kali temple like the one in Basurdhuljhuri. The Sree Sree JoyKali Matar Temple in Bangladesh’s northern Natore district is also a 300-year-old temple.

“Sree Sree JoyKali Matar temple is one of the oldest temples situated in Natore, Bangladesh and was built in the beginning of 18th century by Dayaram Roy, Dewan of Queen Bhahani of Natore and the founder of Dighapatia Royal Family. The compound of the temple also houses a Lord Shiva temple. India is also funding the construction of Ramakrishna Temple, Restoration of Sree Sree Anandomoyee Kali Mata Mandir in the country,” a WION report from 2020 said.

“The Kali temple at Basurdhuljhuri has as much historical significance as the one at Natore if not more. We will need a budget of fifteen lakh Bangladeshi Taka at least to construct a temple that would do justice to the history and heritage of the site. We will appeal to both the governments this year,” says Tapan Chowdhury, a resident of Basurdhuljhuri.

Sasan Kali and Bangladesh’s syncretic culture

When the rest of India celebrates Diwali, Bengali Hindus in West Bengal worship Goddess Kali and call it Kali pujo. It is the same for Hindus in Bangladesh. Of the many forms of Kali, Sasan Kali, revered by the Tantric schools of Hinduism and mostly found at the cremation ghats, is also worshipped in some temples like the one in Basurdhuljhuri.

“Kali means power to me. Every time I look at the goddess, I feel powerful. I started painting Kali early on in my artistic career,” says Bangladeshi actress and artist Ashna Habib Bhabna. Bhabna has never been to Basurdhuljhuri but finds the idea of Hindus and Muslims coming together to rebuild a Kali temple fascinating. “This syncretic culture once defined Bangladesh and it still exists by defeating fundamentalist forces. I am a practising Muslim but I love drawing Kali. I won’t let anyone else define my religion for me. I hope the temple at Basurdhuljhuri gets built soon,” she says.

Khokon says he has grown up believing that religion is personal, but festivity is for everyone. When he hears about temple attacks in Bangladesh, he feels it is an attack on his belief system also.

In February this year, unidentified persons vandalised 14 temples in a northwest region of Bangladesh. The three unions (jurisdictions) where the incidents took place were known to be an area of excellent inter-faith harmony.

“When I organised funds in 2001 for the makeshift temple, I was also rebuilding a part of my childhood that was washed away by floodwaters. And now that we plan to form a committee for a proper temple in the village, I hope my government and India help us restore a part of our common heritage,” Khokon says.

(Edited by Anurag Chaubey)