New Delhi: MSG, or monosodium glutamate, often associated with Chinese cuisine, has earned a bad reputation among consumers. However, the reality is quite different. Fears around MSG were put to rest when a group of chefs from Olive and Mesa came under one roof recently in Delhi.
“Japanese food is considered one of the most healthy cuisines. And, it (MSG) is a key ingredient in dashi, the fundamental stock in Japanese cooking,” said Master Chef Takuji Takahashi, the third-generation successor of the Michelin-starred Kinobu restaurant in Kyoto.
Takahashi was joined by some Delhi head chefs and industry experts to discuss MSG’s reputation in India and the similarities between Japanese and Indian cuisine, at Inja restaurant in New Friends Colony on 18 October.
MSG isn’t unhealthy; in fact, it brings the elusive fifth flavour to life — umami, the full-bodied savoury taste found in foods like parmesan and mushrooms, as well as in most meats. MSG is the crystallised manifestation of umami.
The stigma around MSG began when a doctor published a letter in The New England Journal of Medicine in 1968, complaining of weakness, numbness, and racing heart after having Chinese food. This prompted others to share similar experiences, and the term “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome” was coined.
Notably, natural glutamate, which exists in many foods, is often used as an additive in countless “MSG-free” products. Any dish boasting umami likely contains natural glutamate, often in substantial amounts.
Following the 1968 letter, a number of reports published over the years debunked the notion and majority countries lifted the ban on MSG. But, it was a little too late. Misinformation, poor marketing, and PR solidified MSG’s reputation as an unhealthy additive, especially in India.
“MSG is misunderstood. It is an enhancer. The umami it brings isn’t the main character, instead its role is to use every ingredient to its full potential,” said Takahashi.
Professor Jamuna Prakash, from the Department of Food Science and Nutrition, University of Mysore, who travelled all the way from Karnataka for the meet–and–greet, stated that a small amount of MSG can add more depth and flavour to Indian curries and dals.
“It’s manufactured from natural resources. It’s a natural material. It gets metabolised in the body the same way a nutrient gets. It’s safe for pregnant women,” she said.
And before returning to her plate of Zaru Udon Khasi Curry, Prakash dropped a truth bomb — “Do you know what is the richest source of MSG? Mother’s milk.”
Roots in Japan
Umami is not restricted to meat. It is derived from amino acids. Tomatoes, potatoes, green peas, lotus root, garlic, and corn are the plant-based umami sources that are packed with the flavour.
And, even though the use of MSG was coined ‘Chinese Restaurant Syndrome’, it was a Japanese chemist, Kikunae Ikeda, who discovered the compound in 1908.
He figured out how to synthesise the molecule by extracting glutamate from seaweed and mixing it with water and table salt to stabilise the compound.
Ikeda patented the finished product, and it became one of Japanese food science’s greatest commercial successes.
Today, the crystallised seasoning, frequently made from beets, corn, and molasses, is known as MSG in the US, but is also often called by the name Ikeda first gave it – Ajinomoto.
“The role of MSG is to make the food nutritious and tasty, not the other way around. We have been striving to do the same since the beginning but people still have hesitations,” said Shigeyuki Takeuchi, Associate General Manager, Ajinomoto.
The head chefs from restaurants like The Oberoi, Inja, Mesa, 32nd Milestone, and Guppy by ai, among others, resonated with the thought.
“MSG is better than other chemicals like food colour. It is admirable that Japan held onto its traditions no matter what,” said culinary consultant Ajay Chopra.
Hence, Japanese food, despite its liberal use of MSG, is considered one of the healthiest cuisines.
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Japanese wave
With Takahashi around, it was a no–brainer to discuss a comparison between the two cuisines — Indian and Japanese. And, the chefs didn’t miss the golden opportunity.
Delhi has a newfound obsession with Japanese cuisine, with at least 20 restaurants around the capital feeding this craze. The Isekai-and-highball combo has become a go-to, while sushi and udon noodles are favourites. This wave is partly fueled by the city’s growing anime fandom and global travel influences.
“In the last decade, there has been a growing demand for Japanese food at least once a week,” said Chef Saurabh from Guppy by Ai.
Sourish Bhattacharyya, Senior Consultant, We The Chefs, noted a rising popularity of izakayas—the informal spots that sparked Japan’s highball boom, where whiskey and soda mix effortlessly.
While the Japanese influence on India is real, both cultures actually have a lot in common.
Takahashi, who has explored Indian curries, finds that both the cultures honour ingredients and share techniques like steaming and deep frying.
“Indian spices are fascinating,” he said, “because behind every spice is a story.”
The main difference, according to the Master Chef, is that Japanese cooking leans on water, while Indian cuisine is often oil-based.
“And even with oil, we prefer healthier options, like fish oil,” said Takahashi.
Amid India’s rising diabetes, obesity, and lifestyle diseases, Japanese food sets an example that health and flavour can go hand in hand.
“I didn’t eat a drop of oil, but the flavours were incredible,” recalled Pawan Agarwal, CEO, Food Future Foundation, and former CEO of FSSAI. His seven-day trip to Japan was packed with tasty and healthy food.
However, Agarwal stresses that India shouldn’t simply mimic Japan. Instead, he suggests that the country must find its own approach to balancing taste with health.
“It’s not just about umami or MSG; it’s about resolving the tension between flavour and nutrition—until we do that, real progress isn’t possible.”
(Edited by Aamaan Alam Khan)