At South Delhi’s Olive Bar & Kitchen, European cuisine is being reinvented. Executive Chef Dhruv Oberoi, 35, had a vision: to serve healthy food to his diners. So, he decided to churn up European recipes using only local ingredients. His daring creations—like amla salad, jamun cheesecake, and pizza with amaranth flour—initially left the restaurant owner baffled.
“Who puts amla in a salad at a European restaurant?” the owner questioned during the ideation session. But Oberoi stood firm, believing in his flavour combinations.
“I remember the first time he tasted the amla salad; he was puzzled by its unique taste. Now, it’s the first thing he orders every time he visits,” Oberoi told ThePrint.
The culinary landscape is undergoing an evolution—from Delhi to Mumbai and Bengaluru. A new generation of chefs are testing the flavours, combining international cuisine with local ingredients and time-tested cooking techniques. They are breaking conventional rules, redefining the concept of cooking and dining experiences and bringing a fresh perspective to the table. And India’s new food movement is benefitting from the educated and well-travelled diners who aren’t shy of mixing chilli-cheese with churros or putting pizza and butter chicken on the same plate.
Taking forward the legacy of Ritu Dalmia, Vikas Khanna, Sanjeev Kapoor and Manish Mehrotra, the new crop is making global food fun and relevant for the Indian palate. Travel is a key source of inspiration, allowing them to introduce international flavours beyond pizza and pasta. But without losing the sense of pride in the local ingredients and cuisine.
Oberoi’s culinary adventure includes using bitter gourd chips for crunch in middle eastern dishes and ivy gourd in pasta.
“Pasta primavera means everything green from the season. So, rather than using anything from Italy and Europe, I use our very own ivy gourd or kundru,” he said.
Oberoi’s focus on making European dishes healthy was inspired by his personal life. “Because I was eating healthy, I wanted to serve the same to his diners.”
His next adventurous swap is replacing the fruity and citrusy raspberry with the humble falsa berry in deserts. Oberoi points out how both the fruits have a similar flavour profile.
The chef is confident that the Gen Z crushing on the fancy cheesecakes and desserts will fall in love with his falsa concoction.
“Apart from their favourites, the younger generation always look for ‘what’s new’ on the menu irrespective of the ingredients used,” he adds.
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Local is special
Bangalore’s Farmlore, an 18-cover oasis nestled amid a sprawling 37-acre natural farm, is in limelight for its harvest-driven menu.
The kitchen is run by executive chef Mythrayie Iyer, who has worked in the kitchens of chef René Redzepi’s two-Michelin-star noma in Denmark.
Under Iyer’s leadership, local ingredients take centre stage. They are celebrated in all their glory—from succulent Malabar oysters to tantalising melon and crab dishes. The menu changes every month or even every week depending on the produce the farm offers.
In this fast-paced world, where noodles are ready in two minutes and cake is baked in five minutes, this farm-to-table restaurant is reviving the art of slow dining.
Here, you’re robbed of choices. Diners leave their fate in the hands of the chefs who never fail to surprise them.
The dinner service, a 10-course menu, lasting over two-and-a-half hours is slow-paced, allowing diners to spend quality time with their families and friends. They don’t have to worry about what to order next.
Iyer agreed that both restaurant entrepreneurs and diners have become aware and educated about food. But there is a long way to go.
“I would like a community to be built to constantly evolve and educate both the diners and people of the industry and portray the diverse untapped offerings of this country,” she said.
And she is not alone.
Niyati Rao runs Mumbai’s Ekaa restaurant. It’s a place where every dish tells a story of India’s rich culinary heritage.
Ekaa, which opened its doors to diners in December 2021, ranked number 98 in rankings issued by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024 list.
And Rao’s ingredient-centric — where the focus is more on ingredients instead of cuisine — menu boasts of Indian sea urchin and durian. The menu is a testament to her commitment to highlighting the “untapped offerings” of the country.
Even for their cocktails, Ekaa focuses on highlighting Indian botanicals and Ayurvedic ingredients such as camphor, mountain pepper and more.
Notably, there is a sense of pride among Indian chefs. Probably why the resurgence of indigenous recipes and traditional flavours on menus. They are making an attempt to trace back to their roots and bring a refined version of desi or local cooking.
The culinary world, which was previously dominated by European cuisines, is now welcoming a burst of Asian flavours. From Indian restaurants, Semma, Rania and Indienne winning US Michelin awards to pani puri and kathi rolls being made on MasterChef Australia — Indian food is having its moment right now.
Chef Rao credits the pioneers of the industry like Vikas Khanna, Vineet Bhatia, Manish Mehrotra and Ritu Dalmia for laying the groundwork. According to her, it’s comparatively easier for the young crop to take the mantle forward.
But, there is a difference between the old and the new generation, “a change of thought,” added Hiten Puri, co-owner and head chef, Delhi’s Zuru Zuru.
“We don’t think of service professionals as servants anymore. Times are changing. There is not just glamour around this profession. There is a sense of pride as well. The younger generation is going to be 5x in terms of the quality and ideas,” he said.
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The Japanese wave
In the heart of Delhi’s Shapur Jat village, the atmosphere at Zuru Zuru is alive. Diners enjoy soulful slurping of authentic Ramen bowls. Navika Kapoor, 25, and Puri, 28, are on a mission to share the essence of Japanese cuisine with every diner.
It all began when Kapoor fell into a Ramen rabbit hole during her college days, sparked by a disappointing Japanese food experience in Delhi. Determined to uncover the secrets of Japanese cuisine, she dug deep into its flavours and complexities.
“It’s a disciplined art,” Kapoor said, highlighting the meticulous process that goes into every bowl of ramen.
Kapoor’s effervescent energy finds its perfect counterpart in Puri, the zen master of the kitchen. With a decade of culinary experience under his belt, including a stint assisting Chef Kunal Kapoor, Puri’s journey into Japanese cuisine was akin to diving into uncharted waters — a challenge he embraced wholeheartedly.
“It’s like a blank canvas,” Kapoor says, her eyes filled with enthusiasm. “There’s endless room for creativity, a playground for culinary exploration.”
Viral videos on Instagram and word of mouth have helped the restaurant register a handsome turnover.
Visitors who have dug into Zuru Zuru’s ramen bowls have one thing to say – “these are the best Japanese Ramen.”
A diner, who was recording a video of him slurping the ramen bowl, shared how he has been looking for “authentic Japanese food in Delhi but always failed.” His search finally came to an end when he stumbled upon a video of the restaurant on Instagram.
Step inside Zuru Zuru, and you’ll find yourself transported to a cozy Japanese living room, where every corner whispers tales of communal dining and shared experiences. Kapoor and Puri fondly recall the early days when their balcony, originally designed for two, became a hub of social interaction, accommodating guests in numbers they never imagined.
“Here, strangers become friends over a shared meal. That’s the power of food,” said Puri.
This new found love for Japanese cuisine isn’t confined to Delhi. Mumbai and Hyderabad are also in the competition.
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Over to Mumbai
“Celebrity favourite” restaurant that “highlights the potential of Japanese cuisine beyond sushi and transports diners to a meal experience that is authentic to Japan” — that’s how Lakhan Jethani and his Bandra restaurant Mizu Izakaya are being described. They are doing to Mumbai what Zuru Zuru is doing to Delhi: introducing the maximum city to authentic Japanese food.
Alongside his childhood friend Vedant Mallik, Jethani started the Japanese restaurant in 2019 in Khar, Mumbai’s suburban hub.
With a culinary journey that spans Switzerland, Dubai, and Japan, Jethani’s passion for cooking ignited in his childhood, where he found joy in crafting tomato baskets for his tuition mates.
“I remember making tomato baskets at 12. With the flesh scooped out, the tomato canvas was filled with fruit pieces, and tossed in salt, pepper, and chaat masala – for the kids in my tuitions,” he reminisces.
Japanese cuisine, with its rich cultural tapestry, excited Jethani.
As a kid, he was always very fond of origami and the Japanese philosophy of treating the ingredients – with love, care and respect. Jethani, who made his dream of studying and working in Japan come true, now intends to educate diners how Japanese cuisine is beyond sushi.
At Mizu Izakaya, aburi nigri, and sashimi moriawase share the spotlight with tantalizing gyoza and baos crusted with togarashi—transporting diners to the bustling streets of Tokyo.
An average meal for two is priced at Rs 3,000-3,500. Jethani admits that Japanese food is “very aspirational.” It is reigning supreme, especially in fine dining, fueled by the global craze for anime and manga comics.
But the chef doesn’t hesitate in giving an Indian touch.
“I smoke my ponzu (a Japanese citrus dipping sauce) with garam masala spices. And I use the Dum Biryani smoking technique. My mentors in Japan were enamoured to see it,” Jethani said, stating that “cross-culture cuisine” is an ongoing food trend.
But, Kastubh Haldipur, executive chef at Hyderabad’s Whiskey Samba, is a step ahead when it comes to blending Japanese and Indian culture.
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Knowing your patron’s palate
A unique kebab menu waits diners. And installed on the premises is a Robata grill — a multi-tier open charcoal grill inspired by the centuries-old Japanese style of cooking in Whiskey Samba’s kitchen.
The fusion of Japanese cuisine with charcoal cooking-style was never heard of in India until Haldipur stepped into the scene.
“Pairing our food with our extensive whisky library is an art. From smokey & peaty to fruity & floral notes, our dishes are crafted to dance harmoniously with every sip,” says Haldipur.
Charred foods usually pair well with smokey and peaty whiskies, while items like sashimi, sushi, carpaccio and ceviche go well with the fruity and floral whiskies.
As Haldipur shuttles between Whiskey Samba’s outposts in Hyderabad and Gurugram, he’s quick to point out the unique dining cultures that shape each city’s culinary landscape. And with that comes the challenge for the chefs — to read their patrons’ palate and the time they have to savour.
“Hyderabad offers a more traditional and historically rich dining experience,” he said, while Gurugram provides a “modern, diverse, and cosmopolitan culinary landscape.”
According to Mizu’s chef Jethani, Delhiites are known for their leisurely dining experiences, they linger over meals, savour every bite and spend more. In contrast, Mumbai’s rushed lifestyle sees diners in a perpetual state of motion, relishing dishes on the go.
Meanwhile, Bengaluru and Hyderabad diners are a breed apart, “adventurous and always eager to sample new flavours and concepts.”
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Know your chef
At Delhi’s Plats on Shivalik Road, the chef and their staff is busy preparing the delicacies to tickle the palates of their guests. But their rhythm is broken by loud voices coming from the serving area.
“We were in the kitchen cooking when we heard a group of customers shouting at our servers,” recalls Hanisha Singh, co-owner and head chef at Delhi’s Plats, in Malviya Nagar. Singh runs Plats with her husband, chef Jamsheed Bhote.
The diners were not happy with the flavours of the dish, but “it didn’t give them the right to misbehave or be abusive to the servers.”
However, when Singh and Bhote stepped out to speak to the diners, their anger instantly subsided.
“I think the presence of the chef matters today, it fosters a sense of trust and comfort,” she adds.
Singh and Bhote, both 37, partners in business and life have been in Delhi’s food industry for over a decade. Completely bootstrapped, their 38-cover restaurant started in October 2019. But this modern space offering global flavours with European cooking techniques has become a favourite among diners in no time.
The trend of choosing restaurants based on the chef’s reputation is growing profoundly.
“Diners derive satisfaction from knowing who prepared their meals, which adds a sense of comfort, homeliness, and transparency to the dining experience,” said 24-year-old Parth Gupta, founder and head chef, Bloom.
Gupta turned his family-owned jewellery store into a European-style cafe, with stunning lavender interiors and a dozen varieties of sandwiches, quiches and coffee. But it’s the food concept – of being totally egg-free, meat-free and gelatin-free – that draws footfall. Bloom in Khan market is the first all-vegetarian cafe of the area.
Gupta admits to a rising trend and growing popularity of chef-owned cafes and restaurants. The whole concept of ‘chef’s table experiences’, where the chef personally presents each dish and shares insights about the food, has become more prevalent.
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The foreign flavour
The devil is in details. That’s Gupta’s talisman helping him navigate and impress visitors at his café.
From checking the quality of ingredients to ensuring cleanliness and sanitation at every step – he focuses on “sweating the small stuff”. A learning he picked up from the kitchens of the Michelin-starred Club Gascon.
Gupta earned a diploma from Ecole Ducasse in Paris, followed by a stint at Le Cordon Bleu and Michelin-starred Club Gascon in London. Thus, he brings a global perspective not only to his culinary creations but also to the running of his kitchen.
Meanwhile, chef Bhote’s journey took a grounded turn after his stint at Pollen Street Social in London. Bhote reminisces witnessing an executive chef diving into butchery alongside the team — no fancy offices, no secluded desks, just chefs immersed in their craft, shoulder to shoulder with their comrades.
Today, at his restaurant, Bhote applies this hands-on approach.
“If the kitchen is running late or work is pending, I don’t think twice before jumping in. After all, it is something I love so it’s no burden,” he says.
But for 30-year-old Devika Manjrekar, her culinary awakening came in the heart of London’s Le Cordon Bleu in 2015, where she discovered the power of embracing femininity in a traditionally male-dominated industry.
Hailing from a film family, Devika found her true passion in food, carving her own path as the proud owner of Toast Pasta Bar in Mumbai’s Lower Parel area.
“I learned about great female leadership, a wholesome and non-toxic work culture and embracing your femininity even in a male-dominated workplace,” she said, recalling her London stint.
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The training gap
A surge of Indian chefs heading west for their culinary education raises eyebrows about the state of India’s own culinary schools. Despite having esteemed institutions such as Symbiosis School of Culinary Arts, IHM Aurangabad, and the Culinary Academy of India in Noida, chefs highlight “the room for improvement.”
Rao attributes the dip in India’s culinary education over the past two decades to simple economics: “demand and supply.” There just wasn’t a hunger for chefs back then, and the profession wasn’t even seen as prestigious, leading to fewer culinary schools.
“With the rising appetite for global cuisine, our culinary schools are spicing up their curricula to keep up with industry trends. Plus, new schools are eager to set up shop in India,” says Sharma.
Partnerships like Ecole Ducasse with the Indian School of Hospitality in Gurugram and Le Cordon Bleu teaming up with GD Goenka are recognistion of the growing Indian appetite for fine dine.
Both Sharma and Rao are optimistic. They envision India becoming a culinary education hotspot, drawing students from all over the world.
According to chef Oberoi, along with the restaurant owners and culinary institutions, the chefs are also well aware that they are sitting on a “goldmine of opportunities.”
“Mark my words, tribal Indian food is the next big thing.”
(Edited by Anurag Chaubey)