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Colouring your beard with quick dyes and cocoa paste? Here’s what you need to watch out for

Choosing the right type of facial hair colour can be daunting, and it's essential to consider factors like skin tone, hair texture, and personal style before deciding.

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Dear men, are you tired of facial hair making you look older? Or are you simply looking for a change in style when you choose to colour them?

As a dermatologist, I have seen that many men colour their facial hair. While some can rock the salt-and-pepper look, others feel self-conscious and seek to maintain a more youthful demeanour. For the latter, colouring the facial hair can turn the clock back and make them feel more confident.

However, choosing the right type of facial hair colour can be taxing given the plethora of options available in the market today. Before taking the plunge and changing your entire look, keep these factors in mind.

Avoid quick dyes

Be extra cautious when selecting a colouring product for your facial hair, especially if you plan to use it at home. Avoid using fast-acting hair dyes that promise quick results — say, in 7 or 10 minutes. These products often contain higher levels of chemicals like PPDs (para-phenylenediamine) and Resorcinol that can cause skin irritation, allergies, and other damaging reactions. It’s essential to understand that anything that gives fast results is not necessarily good for the body. I recommend opting for gentler products that take longer to show results. They are safer and less likely to cause any harm.

There has been a rising trend of brands promoting instant colour shampoo or foam hair colouring comb, which supposedly colour hair instantly. It is essential to note that these fast-acting products can pose a significant risk to the health of your hair, scalp, and skin, as they contain harmful ingredients such as p-Phenylenediamine, M-Aminophenol, Resorcinol, and Oxyquinoline Sulfate.

For patients with vitiligo, Lichen Planus Pigmentosus and autoimmune diseases, using fast-colouring products with the above-mentioned ingredients is a strict no. These products might potentially trigger the disease and result in the development of vitiligo patches on various parts of the body.


Also read: That colour on your hair is dangerous. Read the label first


Be mindful of the colour

If you want your facial hair to blend in with your features and not stand out in a jarring way, then choose a shade that matches your natural hair colour — take a cue from the hair on your head or eyebrows. Avoid using different shades for hair and beard, as this can create an unbalanced look. Should you choose to experiment, go for a shade that matches your eyebrows to create a more subtle effect. But make sure it complements your skin tone and facial hair type.

Check out the ingredients

Before purchasing any colouring product, read the label meticulously. Keep an eye out for hair dyes that are devoid of harmful chemicals such as PPDs, indigo, parabens, ammonia, peroxides, and sulphates. These chemicals can be abrasive and may lead to undesirable side effects such as irritation, allergic reactions, or cause autoimmune disorders.

Do a patch test

Before colouring your facial hair, do a patch test, especially if you’re trying a new colour or brand. Apply a small amount of the dye on your forearm or hand and leave it on for 15 to 20 minutes to check for any allergic reactions or irritation. If you notice any redness, itching, or discomfort, avoid using that brand. A patch test is a simple yet effective way to ensure that you can safely colour your facial hair without any adverse effects. However, if a hair colour suits you on the scalp, it’s likely to suit you on the face as well. In such a case, you can skip the patch test.


Also read: Hair transplants don’t work for balding women. But don’t lose heart


DIY facial hair colouring — Dos and Don’ts 

If you plan to colour facial hair at home, it’s important to take some precautions to ensure a safe and successful outcome. I recommend using professional kits with ODS² (oil-delivery system) complex — you can purchase them easily from a salon. Such products are not only safer, but they are also way less harsh on your skin than other over-the-counter dyes.

After you have coloured your hair, wash your face with cold water — even in winter. In the summer, you can use ice to soothe the skin and reduce inflammation. I suggest applying curd immediately after colouring to help calm irritation and nourish the skin. Leave the curd on for 30 minutes, and wash it off with plain water.

If you’re allergic to curd, aloe vera gel is an excellent substitute. It has exceptional calming properties and can be left on your skin overnight. In the event of any visible redness or irritation, apply any tried-and-tested soothing lotion with zinc oxide, zinc carbonate, and simethicone. Ensure it’s perfume-free too. Any aftershave that you have used before can also work well.

Be mindful of some facts

If you develop an allergy to a specific hair colour brand, stop using it for at least 4 to 5 months. This will allow your body to eliminate the allergy-causing agents from your immune system. If you are switching brands, check the components carefully.

Diabetic patients must exercise extra caution because the immune system gets weaker and an allergic reaction may last longer. Be thorough about the brand of hair dye and stick to the right one for life. If you’re unsure about which brand to choose, look for ones that contain organic or vegetable-based ingredients. Otherwise, it is best to consult a dermatologist experienced in anti-allergy treatments. Should you see any irritation after applying the hair dye, it’s advisable to pop an anti-allergic pill immediately.

Individuals with pigmentation or pigmentary autoimmune skin disorders such as lichen planus pigmentosus should avoid colouring altogether. If at all you go for it, choose natural products like cocoa paste. All you need to do is make a thick paste by mixing cocoa powder with some water and apply it to your beard and wash it off after 15 minutes. Not only will it give your beard a darker colour, but cocoa also has antioxidant properties that can nourish your facial hair and make it look healthier. Alternatively, you can choose products with an ODS² — an excellent choice because it is gentle on the skin. The groundbreaking technology has transformed the colouring industry by offering a permanent, ammonia-free solution that is also fragrance-free.

Choosing the right type of facial hair colour can be a daunting task, and it’s essential to consider factors like skin tone, hair texture, and personal style before deciding. Ultimately, consulting a dermatologist before using any colouring product is the best way to go about it.

Dr Deepali Bhardwaj is a dermatologist, anti-allergy specialist, laser surgeon and internationally trained aesthetician. She tweets @dermatdoc. Views are personal.

(Edited by Humra Laeeq)

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