Gone are the days of colouring one’s hair to cover the greys. Hair colours have evolved into a fashion statement. As a doctor, I see young people doing global colours, smoothening, and other chemical treatments, which eventually damage their hair to an extent that by the time they reach their 30s and 40s, they lose half their scalp.
Are you also someone who likes experimenting with your hair colour every season? And are you confused by the plethora of options in the market? Here is a quick guide to buying the right colour.
When it comes to hair colour, many people are focused on finding the perfect shade. But it’s equally important to choose one that is good for your scalp. A wrong choice can create an allergic response, causing itching, dryness, and flaky skin, especially if you have a sensitive scalp.
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Read the label, do a patch test
It is important to read the label carefully. Look for ones that are free of parabens, ammonia, peroxides and sulfates. These chemicals can be harsh on the scalp and may cause irritation or allergic reactions and even lead to diseases like asthma, autoimmune disorders such as LPP, etc. Avoiding colours, which offer quick results — like an instant colouring shampoo or 5-7 minute hair dye — is my advice, especially for those who are allergy prone or have skin issues. One-wash colours are extremely dangerous for your hair, scalp and skin as they contain PPD, hydrogen peroxide and resorcinol.
Best ingredients is no guarantee it’s suited for you. So do a patch test before application. Apply a small amount of the colour to your skin and wait for 24-48 hours to see if you have an allergic reaction. If you experience any itching, redness, or swelling, avoid using the dye altogether.
Watch out for these ingredients
Ammonia: It gives the colour its strong, unpleasant odour. Manufacturers use it because it helps the pigment to penetrate the cuticle. However, repeated application has repercussions as it leaves the hair dry and damaged. In addition, ammonia also brings discomfort to throat and respiratory system.
PPD or paraphenylenediamine: It is another commonly used ingredient. PPD eliminates the pigment, which is responsible for maintaining the natural colour of the hair. Overexposure to this toxic chemical, which is also a recognised carcinogen, can cause rhabdomyolysis, respiratory failure, and cardiac problems. PPD together with ammonia have been shown in studies to cause allergic reactions and promote other harmful effects on the cellular level after they are absorbed by the scalp.
Hydrogen peroxide: It is frequently used as a bleach substitute since it is thought to be gentler on your tresses. Unfortunately, there is no truth to this commonly held myth. Using peroxide to lighten your hair causes long-term cuticle damage, which leads to frizz, split ends, and even breakage.
PTD: Research shows a significant amount of PTD is absorbed via the skin during the dying process. This chemical is not only harmful to the person getting their hair coloured, but it may also induce the hairdresser with allergies.
Quaternium-15: This chemical is a recognised allergen and is used as a preservative in many cosmetic and hair products. It emits formaldehyde, which can cause contact dermatitis in persons sensitive to it.
Resorcinol: It is a dangerous substance that can harm not just your scalp but also your general health. It is classed as a hazardous chemical since it is flammable, produces stomach discomfort when inhaled, and causes redness when it comes in contact with the skin. Resorcinol is a recognised hormone disruptor with the potential to induce thyroid malfunction and negatively impact your central nervous system.
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, or SLS: It cleans your hair almost too well during the colouring procedure. SLS is also included in home cleaning products, so it not only removes dirt but also essential, natural oils, leaving your hair fragile and prone to breakage. Continuous SLS exposure might also cause skin inflammation.
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Natural ingredients
Nature’s organic treatments never fail to deliver, whether it’s for your hair, skin, or general well-being. To avoid hair dyes containing harsh chemicals, look for hair dyes that contain natural ingredients which are less likely to cause irritation and are gentler on the scalp.
As a dermatologist, I recommend certain brands that not only offer a plethora of shades but are also fragrance-free and use an ammonia-free permanent technology. They are transforming the hair colour business with the ODS² oil-based system. Oil Delivery System 2 technology is a unique oil-based colour delivery system that helps optimise the effectiveness of the hair colouring process.
There are also brands that have an organic composition, are completely natural, cost-effective and less damaging to the hair. They are loaded with all-natural ingredients such as Indigoferra Tinctoria (Indigo), Lawsonia Inermis (Henna), Rubia Cardifolia (Manjistha), Coffee Arabica (Coffee), Bacopa Monniera (Brahmi), Acacia Catechu (Kattha), Emblica Officinalis (Amla), Eclipta Prostrada (Bhangra). They help you obtain the desired colour without cuticle damage.
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Post-haircare treatment
If you have scalp irritation after colouring your hair, or if you have dermatitis or dandruff, which is quite common, then try this simple home remedy. Mix 1 tsp of antiseptic lotion like cetrimide with 5 tsp of water in a bowl and dab it on your scalp for 30-60 minutes before shampooing. Include curd in your aftercare treatment on the day you colour your hair and over the next several days to prevent irritation.
Above all the advice that include what to pick and what not to, it’s important to remember that overexposure to any foreign material will adversely impact the scalp. So reducing the frequency of colour application isn’t a bad idea. Use only to hide the greys. As for fashion colours, don’t try them more than once in five years.
Dr Deepali Bhardwaj is a dermatologist, anti-allergy specialist, laser surgeon and internationally trained aesthetician. She tweets @dermatdoc. Views are personal.
(Edited by Anurag Chaubey)