One of the most common questions I get, no matter the age range or gender, is how to deal with acne. The latest studies show that 80 per cent of the population will be affected by acne between the onset of puberty and 30 years of age. In fact, as of the end of 2026, the number of people affected by acne in India is estimated to be around 23 million people
With men, the approach to it is slightly different, but with the proper routine and care, one can make sure to say goodbye to acne.
What is acne?
When the hair follicles are clogged with oil and dead cells with a buildup of sebum, it can lead to acne. Acne is of different kinds: Whiteheads, blackheads, pimples, nodules (painful lumps under the skin), and cystic lesions.
Most common reasons
Acne is a combination of genetics and environment, but there are some core reasons why some people have a higher tendency to get acne:
Hormonal acne: The most common reason for acne is hormone driven. The increased activity and production of hormones such as testosterone leads to an excess in oil production, blockage of hair follicles and in turn inflammation from the overgrowth of bacteria.
Stress acne: It is a misunderstanding that stress causes acne directly. When stressed, the body releases a hormone called cortisol. This leads to worsening of acne that may have already been there.
Barber’s acne: If you go to the salon to get a trim and a shave, you may sometimes come back with red, bulbous bumps. This is known as barber’s acne or itch and it’s caused due to bacterial overgrowth
Acne due to hygiene issues: Surprisingly, washing your face too much can lead to acne. Washing your face multiple times a day can lead to a breakout and thus inflame already sensitive skin. While having laid-back hygiene practices doesn’t directly lead to acne, not having a routine is a playground for bacterial growth — leading to pustules and bumps
Hairline acne: Hair care items like styling gel can lead to an increase of dandruff. This, in turn, leads to raised bumps along the hairline.
Environmental factors: Factors such as pollution and dust storms contribute to acne eruption. The dust and pollution irritate the skin, which if already prone to acne, breaks out. Poor diet, smoking, and chronic illnesses such as diabetes are also underlying factors that can lead to acne episodes.
Sun-induced acne: A recent paper published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, points to sun exposure as a factor that triggers or worsens acne. It is common for men to get boils due to the searing heat.
Also Read: Excessive body hair can cause serious skin diseases. This is how you can get rid of it
Care practices
Now that we know what triggers acne, how can one take care of their skin?
To start off with, focus on your hygiene routine. Wash your face twice a day, once with a salicylic acid face wash and the second with a gentler one to avoid dry or irritated skin. If you are out in the dust and sun, you can wash your face with just water, without cleanser, to keep it clean.
When washing your face with cleanser, splash your face with water and lather the face wash on, let it sit on your face for 30-45 seconds before rinsing it off. Make sure you don’t pull your skin while drying your face. And always use a generous amount of sunscreen when stepping out of your house.
Benzoyl peroxide, clindamycin, and nicotinamide are the go-to for acne treatments, especially for antibiotic coverage. There are creams which combine clindamycin and nicotinamide, it is one of the most effective treatments. But be careful not to use it for more than two months — the acne may get resistant to clindamycin. If you’re using benzoyl peroxide-based products, make sure to moisturise before and after using the product to limit the irritation and redness of the skin. A rule of thumb is to use a cream/gel if your skin is dry and a serum if your skin is oily.
While it may be tempting, picking at your acne is an absolute no-no. This would result in scarring. There are two types of scarring from acne — marks (hyperpigmentation of the acne area) and depression (crater-like skin inflammation). Marks can be treated with chemical peels and creams, less intensive in the treatment. However, depressions can only be treated with a laser. The number of sittings required to resolve the depressions are directly proportional to how long you’ve had the scar. I stress on this because I’ve seen adult men who want complete scar removal for acne they may have plucked much before they were teenagers. A scar that’s more than a decade old would need eight to nine sittings (and may not be ever completely removed). But if you’ve had scarring for only two to three months, that would be easier to treat.
Men who are prone to acne must keep a few things in mind while shaving their beards. Trimming your beard before shaving helps reduce the sensitivity of the skin. Wash and moisturise your face well before starting your shave. Use a shave gel and a sharp razor to shave after which make sure you moisturise again. These steps will help you limit the sensitivity of your skin.
There are a few home remedies that help with acne-prone skin. Fuller’s earth (multani mitti) mixed with lemon juice can be applied on a pimple to burst it in a safe manner. Homemade packs made of honey and cinnamon, tree oil, and apple cider vinegar can help soothe irritated skin.
As postadolescent acne or adult acne is mostly facial, there is a mental health component to the treatment. Often dismissed as a teenager’s disease, adult acne affects a person’s self-confidence and can lead them to try alternate methods that may do more harm than good.
Also Read: Dear bearded men, your grooming should begin with skincare, not just scissors
When to see a dermatologist
As is with any medical condition, prevention is better than cure. If you have a strong family history of acne, it’s better to start seeing a doctor around the age of 12 or 13 so that you have a game plan and a roadmap to making sure your acne is under control.
If the usual foam cleansers and over-the-counter medications aren’t working or if there is significant scarring or you’re not feeling good about your skin, please visit your dermatologist.
If you’re considering taking tretinoin, your dermatologist is the best person to guide you through it so you are making an informed decision.
And finally, even if you’re not struggling with the above, it is always advisable to go for a medical cleanup.
With the help of microdermabrasion, a medical cleanup gives your skin a new lease of life — all the dirt, grime, blackheads, and whiteheads will be gone, giving you a healthy glow. This procedure does not involve chemicals, creams, bleach or steam.
Acne is an often external and isolating medical condition and it’s best if you get the support and help you need as you navigate this health journey.
Dr Deepali Bhardwaj is a dermatologist, anti-allergy specialist, laser surgeon and internationally trained aesthetician. She tweets @dermatdoc. Views are personal.
(Edited by Theres Sudeep)