Five years ago, right across the Qutub Minar metro station, there stood a gleaming Bentley Motors warehouse spread out over three acres of farm. Fancy cars from Delhi showrooms used to be parked here for tune-ups. But what’s more profitable than Bentleys for the farmhouse owner? Chinese cabbage, cherry tomatoes and lemongrass apparently.
The area has now transformed into an exotic vegetable farm. And Delhi residents and upscale restaurants from Hyatt Regency, Khan Market are flocking it.
Farms are lining up on the outskirts of Delhi to feed the growing hunger for non-Indian vegetables as a health-conscious upwardly middle-class is downloading salad recipes and ordering from the lite-bite menus in restaurants.
Once available only in five-star restaurants, the exotic vegetables are no longer an aspiration. From black cherry tomatoes and bok choy to lemongrass and leeks, they’re popping up in Indian kitchens everywhere. And farmers in the Delhi-NCR region are getting on board with these Western food trends, thanks to the soaring demand. The rise in health consciousness has made microgreens, young edible plant seedlings, increasingly popular.
The Indian exotic vegetables market was worth $2.21 billion in 2023, an Expert Market Research report stated. It is now set to grow at 12.29 per cent annually till 2032, to reach $6.26 billion in valuation.
Rajendra Singh Rohilla, manager of the farm near Qutub Minar metro, has been working with Hyatt since 1991. From growing traditional vegetables to exotic ones, the 62-year-old has 40 years of experience in agriculture. He also claims to be one of the few farmers who started growing strawberries back in the 90s.
India is not far behind in the race of producing exotic vegetables. I have seen this market evolve, grow and flourish. Soon, we will dictate the vegetable trends
— Rajendra Singh Rohilla, manager at an exotic farm in Delhi
“India is not far behind in the race of producing exotic vegetables. I have seen this market evolve, grow and flourish. Soon, we will dictate the vegetable trends,” he told ThePrint.
His farm has around 167 varieties of vegetables, including over 150 exotic ones. The list goes on from Radicchio, leek, celery, and rocket leaves to lemongrass, Italian parsley, and cherry tomatoes. It boasts of an impressive 22 lettuce varieties alone, including the classic iceberg, green lettuce, Romaine, lolla roza, and pablo.
But the majority of exotic vegetables are winter crops. Hence, their availability in the summer season falls heavy on the pocket. For example, the Romaine lettuce is currently selling for Rs 300-350 per kilogram, but during winters, it is available for Rs 150-200 per kilogram.
Visitors can also explore a range of cabbages, from the traditional savoy and Chinese types to the vibrant red and purple varieties. Cauliflowers come in various colours too, including green, yellow, purple, and even orange.
As for cherry tomatoes, they are grown in a whole spectrum of hues, from classic red to striking black, yellow, orange, and wine shades. However, pearl and pear-shaped cherry tomatoes are a hot commodity, priced at around Rs 500-600 per kilogram. And Rohilla struggles to keep them in stock. He attributes the demand for exotic vegetables to the influx of foreign visitors in Delhi.
“Brits, Koreans, Japanese, and Chinese people are big fans of leafy greens. They often use these veggies in soups and salads or simply steam them up as a tasty side dish,” he said.
Also read: Blue Tokai, Black Baza, Third Wave—Indian entrepreneurs making coffee premium like wine, whiskey
Money matters
Elaborating on the health benefits of the crops, Rohilla stepped inside a celery patch. He picked out a stem, rinsed it with water, and chewed on some leaves, stating its benefit — regular consumption of celery can lower blood pressure, reduce acidity, prevent inflammation, and aid digestion. His knowledge of crops left the visitors surprised and curious. One of the customers, barging in the conversation, quizzed Rohilla about the leaves which resembled mint. “They are rockets, very integral to Italian cuisine. Regular consumption of rockets can remove acidity from the body,” he stated.
Rohilla said Indians are becoming more health-conscious, consuming vegetables raw or in stir-fries. Affordability is no longer a concern for the average person, who prefers investing in food rather than spending on medication and hospital bills.
Himanshu, one of the visitors, was quick to resonate with Rohilla, saying he “completely agrees with Rohilla ji. If we are aware of health benefits, we will definitely pay more.”
Himanshu, who had shown up with his two children, stood next to a weighing scale as one of the workers collected the vegetables he just bought. In his 40s, he Himanshu had stepped out to take his kids to a nearby park but wandered into the farm to compare vegetable prices with those of local vendors.
“I picked up leeks and lolo roza lettuce for the first time. They gave me some simple ideas on how to use them, so I’ll give them a try,” he said with a smile.
Himanshu is not alone. There are many like him who find their way to the farm through word of mouth or out of curiosity. But, for Rohilla, they are a bonus because the farm’s major clientele are restaurants.
The chefs running the kitchen at five stars and embassies demand fresh produce. And, Sumit Sabrawal, Executive Chef at Holiday Inn, is one of them. Sabrawal, who has been in the industry for over a decade now, specialises in Western cuisine, mainly Italian, Mexican, and European.
“It is all about the produce. You can be an exceptional chef but low-quality produce can let you down,” he said. The chef emphasised how almost every exotic vegetable, a backbone of the Western cuisine, is easily available in Delhi. According to him, India is a step ahead when it comes to embracing international cuisines.
“You won’t find the local Indian vegetables at farms abroad,” he added.
Though exotic vegetables were growing in India for over the last ten years, they fell short on quality and variety. However, this gap has now been bridged.
“Be it candy cane beetroot or red, black, purple or even watermelon radish – you get everything of top-notch quality at Delhi farms,” said Ankur Sood, Executive Chef, Italian Cultural Centre, during the telephonic interview.
Also read: How Punjab farmers sacrificed high income for a big cause—they gave up Pusa-44 this year
Some challenges
Growing exotic veggies in Delhi is not a cakewalk. A 30-minute drive from Qutub Minar metro station to Asola farms in Chhatarpur brought out the challenges of the capital’s farmers. Kanav Ahuja, founder of Sabz Farm, harvests only seasonal vegetables for his family restaurant’s consumption. He also sells to some aggregators — middlemen who not only harvest but also source produce from farmers across the country and make them available in a particular region.
“A farmer cannot grow everything. Therefore, the majority, especially in Delhi, turn into aggregators. But, I am not one of them,” he said.
The 14-acre land belonged to Ahuja’s grandfather, who used to harvest seasonal fruits. After his death, Ahuja took on the mantle and transformed a portion of the land to harvest organic vegetables. Despite four-five years of hard work, the farm is just about surviving.
The biggest challenge, Ahuja highlighted, is that of water scarcity. He has spread drip irrigation across the harvest but uses it only during nighttime so that the moisture stays in the crop. He has resorted to various techniques to lock the moisture in the soil during the daytime, but he barely succeeds.
Another challenge the farm faces is pest attacks.
“Organic vegetables are very attractive for pollination, but with the exotic ones, the chances are 10 times higher and the variety of pests also increases,” Ahuja said, recalling how his harvest was ruined by pest invasions at various times.
The unpredictable weather is another threat. Exotic vegetables are largely seasonal, and in Delhi, the “climate shifts every two months.” However, Ahuja suggests that farmers can only reap the rewards of exotic vegetable cultivation, if they manage the climate through greenhouse farming.
While traditional vegetables bring in a certain income, exotic varieties can fetch double that amount in some cases. Still, there are risks involved
Despite these hurdles, many Delhi farmers are drawn to growing exotic vegetables because of the substantial profits. While traditional vegetables bring in a certain income, exotic varieties can fetch double that amount. Still, there are risks involved.
“Exotic vegetable seeds are costly. If you succeed, you can make good money. But if not, you might face significant losses,” he added.
However, Ahuja is optimistic. He aims to improve his farming techniques and bring organic vegetables to the market. His passion for farming and keeping his grandfather’s land alive is his driving force.
“I am not after money, after all, farmers don’t make profits, aggregators do,” he added.
Also read: AMU VC Naima Khatoon is facing questions from ‘bearded elite’—Smashing glass ceilings daily
Soaring popularity
Krishi Cress, founded by Achintya Anand in 2012, in Chhatarpur’s Dera village has over a decade of experience in aggregator farming. In addition to harvesting exotic vegetables, they source produce like black cherry tomatoes and purple potatoes from farmers in Maharashtra and Himachal Pradesh. But, their specialisation in microgreens and edible flowers is lately grabbing eyeballs.
Microgreens, referred to as vegetable confetti, gained popularity in the West during the 1980s for the freshness they bring to soups and salads. Apart from enhancing the visual appeal of dishes, these shoots are rich in antioxidants and phytonutrients, offering nutritional benefits.
At his farm in Chhatarpur, Anand cultivates over a dozen varieties of microgreens throughout the year, even in Delhi’s scorching heat. His crops include basil, purple basil, Swiss chard, beetroot, onion, radish, wheatgrass, mustard, pea shoot, red amaranth, sunflower, cosmos, blue pea, and gaillardia.
“Thanks to the increasing presence of home bakers and growing interest in international cuisine, this sector is no longer confined to restaurants,” remarked Disha Bharadwaj, Head of Business, Kombucha, Krishi Cress.
At the Krishi Cress farm, the microgreen room maintained at a low temperature is a visual delight. Rows of vibrant green shoots thriving in trays created a miniature green paradise. Following in the trend of exotic vegetables, microgreens are on the path to becoming a culinary staple in Delhi. On an average, the farm sells over 500 boxes, each weighing 40-50 grams, daily.
Bhardwaj said that before the pandemic, there was little to no competition in this market. However, lockdown changed the face of farming in Delhi.
“Ninety per cent of our clients were HoReCa, but when the lockdown came into picture, our ‘business to customer’ boomed and we weren’t ready,” she said. Bhardwaj recalled how they initially used an excel spreadsheet to note down hundreds of orders, because their website wasn’t functional.
She credited the OTT content such as MasterChef and Korean dramas for the popularity of the Western produce in the country.
“Today, things like savoy cabbage, parsley, sunflower seeds and purple potatoes are no longer German to the Indian audience. And, this is not just a food trend, it is becoming a habit,” Bhardwaj added.
(Edited by Anurag Chaubey)