Why some Navy veterans are opposed to the introduction of kurta-pyjama in the dress code

The adverse reaction to the introduction of the kurta-pyjama lies not so much in the dress itself but in the interpretation of this particular action by veterans and civil society.

The kurta-pyjama has been added to the dress code in the Naval Officers Mess | X @Hardisohi

The kurta and pyjama, Central Asian in origin, have for centuries been popular in South Asia. It made its entry this month as an add-on to the list of the existing informal dresses in the Indian Naval officers’ messes and sailors’ institutes. Earlier in December, the Navy introduced new epaulettes which was publicised as being part of PM Modi’s political call for virasat par garv, pride in our heritage, and shedding ghulami ki mansikta, slave mentality.

This article attempts to examine the military’s cultural value chain and identify the reasons for adverse reactions, especially on WhatsApp groups, the change in attire received from veterans in particular and civilians in general.

Military’s cultural value chain

Culture manifests itself in diverse ways and at divergent levels of depth. Taking a cue from this model by Indonesian scholars Azizah Erzad and Suciati Suciati: symbols, heroes, rituals, and values are reflected in cultural practices and can be imagined in concentric circles—with symbols in the outermost periphery and so on. Dress as a symbol of culture can be placed under symbols, which represent the most superficial aspects of culture.

Symbols can be reflected through words, signs, pictures, items, and attire, which carry an individual meaning and are easily recognised by people who share a common culture. New symbols easily develop while old ones disappear. Symbols from one particular group are often imitated by others. This is perhaps why symbols like attire represent the outermost layer of culture.

Heroes are persons, past or present, real or fictitious, who are deemed to possess personalities that are highly prized in any culture. They also function as models for codes of conduct.

Rituals are collective undertakings, often superfluous in reaching the desired ends, but are considered as socially necessary. They are often carried out for their own sake by ways of greetings, paying respect to others, religious and social ceremonies, etc.

Values form the core of culture. They are broad propensities for preferences of a certain state of affairs to others (right-wrong, good-evil, natural-unnatural). Most values remain oblivious to those who hold them. They cannot be directly observed by others. Values can only be inferred from the way people act under different circumstances.

Symbols, heroes, and rituals are the noticeable or visual aspects of a culture. The actual cultural meaning of the practices is intangible but is revealed mostly when the practices are interpreted by the insiders.

The introduction of the kurta-pyjama by the Indian Navy belongs in the outermost circle of the military’s cultural value chain. Yet, most veterans who represent the insiders, albeit of another era, have reacted negatively to its introduction even as an add-on informal dress. Why has that been the case?

Case for kurta-pyjama

In 2005, through INBR 11/2005, the Navy authorised the use of Jodhpuri and safari suit for men, and saree and salwars for women as part of Indian wear at Naval messes, wardrooms, and institutes on days/occasions where the prescribed rig is formal, informal, or casual.

Now, an additional Indian wear has been authorised, which is the kurta-pyjama with a sleeveless jacket and closed formal shoes or sandals for men and kurta-churidar/kurta-palazzo with sandals or shoes for women. Detailed specifications have been laid down that cover the colour, length of kurta, cuffs on sleeves, and size of pockets. Similarly, for the pyjama, the design and need for matching/contrasting colour have been specified. The specifications for the waistcoat/jacket include the design and pocket locations. The footwear specifications for shoes/sandals include plain moccasins/derby/oxford designs in a dark tan or black shade. Closed leather sandals with backstraps of a dark colour are also permitted.

If one looks at the image the Navy has circulated with the announcement, I do not find any reason why it should not find a place as an add-on among the informal dresses already specified. But, why is there an adverse reaction from the veteran community and some others?

The ‘values’ question

The adverse reaction to the introduction of the kurta-pyjama probably lies not so much in the dress itself but in the perception that underlies the interpretation of this particular action. To many, there was no need for the Navy to go solo on this matter and it should have taken the other two Services along. To some, the tagging of the PMO in the X post on epaulettes as part of breaking ‘ghulami ki mansikta’ betrays the fundamental military value of being an apolitical institution. So, in this view, the manner of introduction is at a crossroads with the values of apolitical character and the spirit of jointness.

Be that as it may, there is no reason why the three Services, even now, should not consider this dress for induction and also take stock of various dresses worn by the Services to make them compatible with our weather conditions and simplify them in terms of maintenance and appearance. They have India’s wide range of textile fabrics and design expertise to choose from. Of course, it is unlikely that any change can be introduced as that will result in additional financial outflow. So the inter-Service exercise for the time being will have to be confined to the informal genre. Standardising the informal dresses of the three Services is also imperative as joint messes will be the order of the day in the future, especially with the creation of the theatre commands.

India’s rich diversity in attire must be exploited by the government to project its cultural heritage. There is a need for the government to issue guidelines to its functionaries who attend international gatherings—more Indian, the better. It could possibly start with alternate options to the necktie, an enduring vestige of colonialism.

Lt Gen (Dr) Prakash Menon (retd) is Director, Strategic Studies Programme, Takshashila Institution; former military adviser, National Security Council Secretariat. He tweets @prakashmenon51. Views are personal.

(Edited by Theres Sudeep)