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HomeOpinionPoVHow Diljit Dosanjh, Raja Kumari challenged ‘tone-deaf’ Coachella fashion—sneakers to prints

How Diljit Dosanjh, Raja Kumari challenged ‘tone-deaf’ Coachella fashion—sneakers to prints

The outfits worn by Diljit Dosanjh, Ali Sethi and Raja Kumari were global yet personal, and independent of Western fashion expectations from the region.

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Punjabi pop sensation Diljit Dosanjh created history on 16 April by becoming the first Indian-born singer to perform at California’s Coachella Valley Arts and Music Festival. The high-profile audience, which included American DJ and music producer Diplo, grooved to Dosanjh’s G.O.A.T, Lemonade, and Vibe. But even before his 45-minute electrifying performance, what stood out was his choice of attire and that he greeted the audience with Sat Sri Akal, the traditional Sikh salutation.

It was not just Dosanjh who made South Asians proud. Pakistani singer Ali Sethi and Indian-American rapper Raja Kumari also stood out with their sartorial choices while performing Sethi’s record-breaking number, Pasoori, at the annual music festival. They made their outfits uniquely their own, choosing not to pander to the Eurocentric understanding of ‘Brown’ or South Asian culture.

As much as it is known for its performances, Coachella is also notorious for its blatant cultural appropriation. Caucasian attendees are often seen sporting elaborate Native American headpieces, shell necklaces, Bindis and war paint with little regard or appreciation for the people those symbols belong to—in a (highly) tone-deaf bid to appear ‘edgy’.

If you’re wondering why such usage can’t be accepted as ‘cool’ fashion, it is because people of Black, Native American or South Asian descent have historically faced racism over choosing the same cultural symbols. And from being asked to leave classrooms to being denied jobs, discrimination has been real and rampant. It is this pressure to exhibit ‘culture’ and ‘brownness’ that Dosanjh, Kumari, and Sethi have challenged with their refreshing and revolutionary sartorial choices.


Also read: Deepika Padukone to Kardashians—faux leather is the new cool statement


Kurtas with sneakers, print-on-print

Dosanjh stepped on stage in a black silk kurta and ‘tamba’, a traditional draped bottom worn by men in Punjab. He added a utility black jacket and a pair of white and grey Nike Air Jordan sneakers to the otherwise ethnic attire. The edgy element was a pair of yellow gloves and the signature retro-style sunglasses that Dosanjh wears in many of his videos and performances. A statement black turban with a crisp fan completed the look for the star as he belted out Punjabi numbers.

In his trademark style, he also announced that “the Punjabis have now reached Coachella”. He asked the audience to groove to the vibe, even if they could not understand the lyrics or meaning of his songs—another crucial moment where the experience was not translated for a White audience.

On the other hand, Sethi wore an oversized pant-shirt combo embossed with colourful motifs and a black hat. Sethi completed his funky and quirky outfit with statement glasses. Kumari opted for a print-on-print statement–a strappy dress, an almost quintessential Coachella staple fashion – over a full-sleeved top. An explosion of hand-block prints and jewellery that consisted of multiple oxidised necklaces, bangles and a pair of earrings completed the ‘Raja Kumari element’ of her outfit.

The cultural appropriation problem of Coachella

Coachella has been a cultural force since its launch in 1999. Over the years, the craze has only increased, with social media playing a big role in making it a ‘bucket list’ event.

The 2023 edition of the Coachella music festival recently kicked off in Indio (California) on 14 April this year. Six days of celebration have been packed into two long weekends that might see a footfall of nearly 125,000 people each day at the Empire Polo Club.

What began as the breeding ground for ‘boho-chic’ fashion with crochet tops, maxi dresses, and tie-up sandals soon metamorphosed into a campaign for social media validation through likes or shares. Coachella fashion came at the cost of cultural appropriation.

Some of the most culturally appropriated artefacts at the festival have been bindis, Cornrows and traditional headdresses. In 2014, Selena Gomez, Kendall Jenner, Sarah Hyland, and Vanessa Hudgens were all called out for using bindis as fashion accessories at the event. Alessandra Ambrosio decided it was a style statement to wear Native American headgear the same year.

The outfits worn by Dosanjh, Sethi and Kumari have given the due to South Asian fashion on international fora. They have shown that our traditional attire can be global, personal, and independent of Western fashion expectations from the region—a truly liberating experience for the community.

(Edited by Zoya Bhatti)

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