Your lips need SPF too. There’s a risk of long-term damage

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Whether you’re the keeper of all the lip balms ever made or a devotee of matte lipsticks, keeping your lips soft and well-cared for is essential. 

But, skincare aisles are falling over themselves with lip balms, lipsticks, and SPF lip balms that all come with the promise of protecting your lips until the end of time. 

Fortunately, you’re reading the column of a dermatologist with over 15 years of experience in the skincare industry. I’m going to break down the best and worst ingredients in lip care to give you a proper understanding of how to keep that pout hydrated. 

The Good 

Skincare products are yet to crack a one-size-fits-all formula, and the same stands for lip care as well, because as people, we’re all designed differently. 

So here’s what’s acceptable for your lips: 

• Petroleum jelly: This is what I like to call the OG lip saviour. It locks in moisture on your lips and saves your lips from looking like gravel. 
• Shea butter and cocoa butter: The fact that they smell like a good dessert is just secondary to the ultra-nourishment levels they offer your lips. 
• Ceramides and dimethicone: These two ingredients in lip care products will help repair any damage your lip barrier may endure. 
• Naturally occurring oils: Oils like castor seed oil are absolute pros in hydrating your lips without any residual irritation. 

The never List

If you feel any tingling or burning sensation in your lips after applying a new lip balm, throw it away. 

Here’s a list of irritants to avoid at all costs: 

• Camphor, menthol: That “cooling” sensation isn’t doing what you think it is; in fact, it’s doing the opposite and drying your lips out. 
• Anything flavoured: Any flavoured lip balm, cinnamon, citrus, or mint is not designed to care for your lips. 
• Lanolin: This works for some people, but if you’re prone to allergies, it’s best to avoid this ingredient
• Salicylic acid: If you’re already prone to chapped lips, then it’s best to avoid exfoliating with this particular ingredient
• Oxybenzone and octinoxate: Sunscreens with these chemicals can further add to your woes if you have sensitive skin. 

SPF for lips

UV rays aren’t taking the day off, so why should your protection? Unprotected lips can lead to sunburn, dark spots and long-term damage. When looking for a lip SPF, make sure it’s SPF 30 or higher. Physical blockers such as titanium oxide; this tends to be less irritating than chemical-based sunscreens. And of course, reapply every two hours – especially if you’re outside, eating, or drinking. 

Here’s a useful tip: if your lipstick doesn’t come with SPF, it would help you in the long term to layer a hydrating SPF balm underneath it first. 

How often should lip balm be used?

If your lips feel dry, then you should reapply. It’s that simple. Generally, using your lip balm two to three times a day keeps the dryness away. If you’re dealing with extra dry lips, then a little thick ointment-based lip balm, like petroleum jelly, at night will go a long way for you. And, always apply lip balm after eating salty or acidic food.

To be completely fair, overusing lip balm can make your lips dependent on it, thereby making them less prone to produce its own necessary moisture. So, check with your trusted dermatologist on a long-term solution if you find yourself reapplying lip balm every 10 minutes; it might be time to re-examine the ingredients of your lip balm. 

 

Are your lips always chapped?

If you find yourself constantly at the business end of painfully dry, flaky, and cracked lips, then maybe it’s not all weather-related. 

• You could be vitamin deficient: Dry lips could be a signal of vitamin deficiencies like B12, C or Omega-3s; boost your diet with citrus fruits, leafy greens, oily fish, flaxseeds, chia seeds, and walnuts are great sources of this.
• Dehydration: There’s no substitute for water. Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate. 
• Constantly licking and biting your lips: Saliva dries out your lips, so please break that habit. 
• Harsh products: Watch out for irritants in your lip product.
• Allergies: This could be a reason why your lips seem constantly chapped and dry; fragrance and dyes are a huge part of these reactions. 

Constantly dry lips could also be a sign of something deeper, such as psoriasis or perioral dermatitis, so my advice would be to get it checked with a trusted dermatologist.

Some more lip care tips

• If you’re into dark shades of lipsticks, it’s better to layer a hydrating balm underneath to avoid staining and persistent dryness. 
• Do not hold metal objects with your lips—pens, jewellery, and paperclips.
• Ensure that you slather on a thick balm on your lips before bed, so that you can wake up with soft lips.

Dr Deepali Bhardwaj is a Consultant Dermatologist, Max Hospital, Saket. She is also an anti-allergy specialist, laser surgeon and internationally trained aesthetician. She tweets @dermatdoc. Views are personal.

(Edited by Ratan Priya)