Even if you’re not too keen on skincare, you’ve probably come across the ‘cleansing, toning, and moisturising’ or CTM routine. While facewashes and moisturisers have been ubiquitous in TV advertisements since the ’90s, it was the toner that has gained massive popularity over the last couple of decades. It has become a staple in the ever-evolving world of skincare—as enthusiasts laud its ability to refine skin texture and tighten pores.
But as with any popular belief, it is essential to separate fact from fiction. If you have been banking on toners to miraculously shrink your pores, you might want to think again.
The anatomy behind it
When it comes to skincare and beauty, if there’s something that most people are concerned about is the pesky problem of ‘open pores’. Our skin pores play an important function in maintaining the health of our largest organ, allowing sweat and oil to reach the surface to keep our skin hydrated and cool.
But when these tiny little dots become more noticeable, and make your skin look like an orange peel, you may have a problem. Why does this happen?
As we age, our skin undergoes a plethora of changes—there is a significant decrease in skin elasticity and the production of collagen, which inevitably leads to less support around pores, resulting in an increase in pore size. Furthermore, if you have oily skin, your pores may appear larger and can easily get clogged with dirt or excess sebum, which, in turn, makes you feel conscious. And men tend to have larger pores than women. Higher levels of androgen stimulate oil production in males, and therefore, result in larger pores.
That’s not all.
Even stepping out into the sun without SPF can damage collagen, making your pores more prominent. Another culprit is smoking, which can lead to oxidative stress that hampers skin health and elasticity.
Having said that, the appearance of pores may vary due to other factors too such as oil production, clogging, and skim elasticity. Clogged pores are most likely to be stretched out, while clean pores look smaller and more refined.
Regardless, one myth that needs to be debunked is: Toners can shrink pores. While they can certainly enhance the skin’s overall appearance and provide a temporary tightening effect, toners can’t reduce pore size permanently.
Then how can you address the open pores problem?
Follow these guidelines
Salicylic Acid and Retinol: These two compounds should be your go-to options to minimise pore prominence. Salicylic acid unclogs pores and exfoliates the skin, while retinol stimulates the production of collagen, resulting in smoother skin texture.
Icing: If you’re looking for a quick fix, icing can help temporarily shrink pores. Applying a cold compress or gently rubbing an ice cube over your face will tighten the skin and make the pores look smaller.
Microneedling: This method is an excellent choice for people looking for clinical treatments to target open pores. It uses small needles to create regulated micro-injuries in the skin, promoting the creation of collagen and enhancing overall skin texture, which can eventually help minimise the visibility of pores.
Laser treatments: CO2 and Erbium Yag (Er: YAG) lasers are effective options to minimise pore size. They not only stimulate the production of collagen but also help improve skin tightness and elasticity. Moreover, Er: Yag removes the outer layer of the skin to encourage the growth of new and healthy skin.
Say no to smoking: Any skin condition can be corrected from within, so treating the problem of open pores should begin with quitting smoking, hookah, or vaping. These practices emit a slew of chemicals into your body that not only affect the skin texture but also lead to pore expansion.
Follow a good skincare routine: Begin by using a gentle cleanser to remove dirt and excess oil and prevent clogged pores. To keep pores clear and minimise their appearance, exfoliate on a regular basis using salicylic acid or glycolic acid. To keep your skin supple and hydrated, use a non-comedogenic moisturiser. Wear sunscreen at all times to protect your skin from UV exposure. Reduce the danger of pore congestion by using non-comedogenic products and cosmetics, and finally, cleaning your face twice a day is critical for achieving the best pore reduction outcomes.
While innumerable products and treatments nowadays claim to shrink open pores, it’s important to recognise that their effectiveness may vary and fade out over time. For serious concerns about open pores, a dermatologist should be consulted in order to obtain expert advice based on our skin type and concerns while ensuring the optimal strategy for addressing pore-related issues and getting personalised remedies.
Dr Deepali Bhardwaj is a dermatologist, anti-allergy specialist, laser surgeon and internationally trained aesthetician. She tweets @dermatdoc. Views are personal.
(Edited by Humra Laeeq)