New Delhi: When he offered his guests a bowl of kheer, a traditional dessert made with thickened milk, chef Ishtiyaque Qureshi had a wicked twinkle in his eyes. He knew he would leave them flabbergasted when he revealed the key ingredient—garlic.
Not just the guests, but even other chefs had no clue that the pearly pods in the dessert were not almonds. The kheer was part of a delectable spread of Awadhi cuisine at the Jashn-e-Lucknow food festival at Delhi’s JW Marriott.
“When he (Ishtiyaque) asked me to taste it, I could never guess what it was. It has truly been quite the experience watching him work tirelessly from morning to night,” said Yashasvi Yadav, a management trainee at JW Marriott.
Yadav had been working closely with Ishtiyaque to prepare 23 dishes using 20 ingredients for the festival held between 21-23 February. With rajanigandha in vases, lanterns, and roses, the tables were set to complement the Awadhi cuisine.
From melt-in-the-mouth Kakori kebabs to the rich dum gosht biryani, and the experimental narangi chicken korma, the slow-cooked dishes had people going for multiple servings.
These dishes reflected the artistry of Ishtiyaque, the eldest son of chef Imtiaz Qureshi, a Padma Shri awardee. Ishtiyaque has been carving out a niche for himself—from opening the Kakori House restaurant in Mumbai to working as a consultant for several popular hotels in India, dabbling with the frozen food industry, and now starting the restaurant Murgori, which serves chicken Kakori kebabs.
Ishtiyaque was on his feet for 14 hours on the first day of the festival, in a kitchen shared with another food pop–up. “We made 23 dishes in just three stoves,” he said, smiling, as he talked to guests in detail about the dishes.
Deeply appreciative of his legacy, Ishtiyaque has, however, charted a course very different from his father, who spent his career with the ITC group.
Ishtiyaque has worked with various brands like The Leela, Kempinski, and InterContinental. He has also been instrumental in the makeover of several brands, including Aafreen, a fine–dining Indian restaurant of JW Marriott Pune.
Ishtiyaque learned from the best—his father—while working through school. “When I was 12, during school holidays, my father skilfully lured me to the Maurya operations. With the temptation of swimming in the pool and eating at the bakery, he put me in the kitchen,” said Ishtiyaque.
He worked in various departments, from bakery to butchery, and credits that hands-on training for building a solid foundation for his career.
Culinary artistry
The young boy didn’t want to cook; he wanted to join college instead. But with a big family to support, another earning member was necessary. He initially worked at ITC Maurya during the day while attending classes at Delhi’s Ram Lal Anand College in the evening.
Ishtiyaque later left for Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, in 1986 after his father helped him get a job there. Three years later, he returned home and interviewed with ITC’s then-chairman, YC Deveshwar, at ITC Maurya in Delhi. He soon found himself at the Dum Pukht restaurant in Mumbai, which was then part of the Sea Rock Hotel.
He also worked with legendary French chef Roger Moncourt, who was the executive chef at ITC Maurya in New Delhi. “I remember he removed beef and pork from the Indian restaurant,” said Ishtiyaque. This separation—which he also recently recommended at a new restaurant—helped increase the clientele for fine Indian dining.
This was around the time when Datta Samant’s trade union raised slogans like ‘Dilliwale murdabad’. Nevertheless, Ishtiyaque found his space, experimenting with slow-cooked delicacies and reviving age-old techniques that define Awadhi cuisine.
Over the years, he has also mastered techniques from the frozen food industry, blending science with culinary artistry—all while carrying forward his father’s legacy.
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Food innovations
The father-son duo often cooked together, especially after doctors advised both parents to stop consuming red meat. This led to one of Ishtiyaque’s innovations—the chicken Kakori kebab.
“For three years, they never guessed it wasn’t made of mutton but chicken. That’s when I realised this is a great option for the market, for those who cannot or don’t want to consume red meat,” said Ishtiyaque.
His father always made sure to have dinner at home, where his mother would rustle up delicacies like aloo gosht, saag gosht, or meat cooked with seasonal vegetables. Ishtiyaque prefers home–cooked meals and staying in rather than travelling, even though work often keeps him on the move.
One dish that had people queuing up for second and third helpings was the narangi chicken korma. “While making the list of ingredients, the chef asked me to get oranges. Even the person in charge of the hotel’s vegetable and meat stock was curious why Awadhi food might need oranges,” said Yadav.
The result of Ishtiyaque’s experiment was a refreshing, aromatic stew. “To me, that is fusion food—when you marry one ingredient with another, instead of overpowering the dish or just laying a few strands of microgreens on a plate. That is just scamming,” said Ishtiyaque.
According to him, training chefs today isn’t what it used to be, as people no longer want to invest the same time or energy. The way his father worked and taught now feels like part of a bygone era.
“I was lucky that we could spend his last years together. He was charismatic and an extrovert. Even till the end, he wanted good food and was joking with the nurses,” said Ishtiyaque.
“But I will always be there for my guests,” he added, pausing briefly to speak to someone dining alone.
Ishtiyaque often cooked for his parents and was always eager to hear his father’s feedback. “He would suggest improvements, and sometimes my mother would be like, ‘Your son has cooked, let it be.’ But that is who he was. And I think like him and have the same kind of passion that he did,” he said.
(Edited by Aamaan Alam Khan)