New Delhi: Zohran Mamdani took oath as New York City’s first Muslim mayor and yet again struck a chord with Indian heritage. He wore a white shirt with black overcoat and formal trousers. And to complete the look, he went for a gold-embroidered tie, custom–made from Assam’s eri silk.
The tie is from the brand Kartik Research, based in Delhi. Established in 2021 by Kartik Kumra, the menswear label focuses on including some handmade elements in its designs, and brings forth forgotten Indian crafts.
The eri silk, also known as ahimsa silk or non-violent silk, is produced in Assam, Meghalaya, and some parts of Nagaland. Assam is its largest producer, offering livelihoods to thousands of people.
Eri is one of the four types of silk produced in Assam — the other three being Pat, Muga, and Tussar. The name is derived from the Assamese word ‘era’, which refers to the castor plant on which the silkworms feed. Eri silk is also called endi and errandi in the local dialect.
From worm to silk
Eri silk is produced by domesticated silkworms called samia ricini. Eri silkworms take about six weeks to reach the cocoon stage from egg. This time period extends by two weeks in winter. The eggs then hatch into larvae within five to seven days. The female eri silkworms are bigger than the males. After emerging from the cocoon, the moth dies. Usually, 100 cocoons yield one skein of silk. Four skeins make up what rearers call one pua or 250 gm of silk.
Usually, silk cocoons are boiled with the worm inside it to maintain one continuous filament, which results in a smooth and shiny fabric. Interestingly, the eri silkworm spins short segments of a filament and creates a cocoon that is open at one end, enabling the moth to emerge.
The production of eri silk allows the completion of the metamorphosis of the silkworm to a butterfly so that no moth has to suffer because of sericulture.
The cocoons are usually sun dried. However, hot air drying is preferable where cocoons are kept in 95 to 55 degree Celsius for 3-4 hours. Keeping with the concept of sustainability practiced in Northeast India, the eri pupa is often consumed by the people in this region as food.
Eri silkworm is multivoltine in nature, which means it can rear 4-5 times in a year.
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Qualities and uses
Eri silk is a staple fibre, which is darker and heavier than other silks. It feels like cotton, has lustre like other silks, and is as bulky and warm as wool, while being the softest among all silk fibres. Due to its thermal properties, it is warm in winters and feels cool in summers. It also blends well with other natural silks — wool, cotton, jute, and synthetic fibers.
The eri silk fabric is washable and wrinkle-free, eliminating the need for any extra treatment. Unlike other silks, eri silk absorbs water. This makes it softer and skin-friendly. Other silk fabrics tend to require extra care due to their delicate nature but eri silk is user-friendly, long-lasting, and gets softer with each use.
It is a hypoallergenic fabric, making it skin-friendly.
Due to its thermal properties, the silk is used to make winter shawls and fabric for jackets, blankets, and bed spreads. Dress materials are also made from the fabric along with furnishings.
Its sustainable nature and qualities have made it a popular choice for designers experimenting with silk.
The silk also obtained the Oeko-Tex certification from Germany on 78th Independence Day in 2024. The certification ensures that textiles are tested for harmful substances and produced in environment-friendly conditions.
Eri and muga silk were also used to make the dress of the idol at Ram Temple in Ayodhya.
(Edited by Aamaan Alam Khan)