New Delhi: A petition signed by 18,000 people opposing the shutdown of the UK’s oldest Indian restaurant will be taken to King Charles III for his intervention. The petitioners want to save Veeraswamy, a nearly 100-year-old restaurant, on Regent Street in London.
The Crown Estate, an independent commercial organisation—sitting between the public and private sectors—that manages extensive urban, rural, and coastal holdings, had declined to renew its lease to the restaurant. The institution has cited major renovation plans for the building.
The BBC reported that “the building is incompatible with the restaurant remaining in its current space”.
The restaurant
In 1926, Veeraswamy opened at its current location at Victory House on Regent Street. It offers a high-end dining experience and luxurious Maharajah-inspired decor at the heart of London.
The restaurant is awash with vibrant colours. With chandeliers and ornate settings, Veeraswamy is the oldest surviving Indian restaurant in London. The interior has been designed with flowing fabrics. The Paisley Room’s 1920s velvet reminds the diners of the restaurant’s illustrious past.
The restaurant boasted of a dish—slow-braised lamb shank—that has stood out to the visitors. The restaurant describes their ‘special dish’ as “a slow-braised shahi patalia raan wraps a lamb shank in golden puff pastry, to be served with a sauce of bone marrow, saffron, and rose, in the tradition of southeastern Punjabi palaces”.
The restaurant has endured World War 2, when London was bombed. The restaurant became a hotspot where politicians, diplomats and film stars would frequently dine in.
In 1996, Veeraswamy was taken over by Namita Panjabi and Ranjit Mathrani of MW Eat, from MP Sir William Steward’s ownership. A massive makeover followed with a modern setting while preserving its old heritage.
The restaurant had a glorious past, from serving at Buckingham Palace for Indian dignitaries to being awarded its first Michelin star in 2017, which it has retained till now. It had served its food to MK Gandhi, Jawaharlal Nehru, several generals and civil servants. It has claimed to be the birthplace of a traditional British combination—curry and beer.
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Campaign to save
The news of Veeraswamy’s shutdown has put its admirers on alert. A few of them have shared their nostalgic memories on the social media platform X. According to the BBC, the supporters and chefs are bringing the letter to the gates of Buckingham Palace.
In the petition, the campaigners are focusing on “protecting a historic institution” and saving a “symbol of Indo-British cultural connections”, the BBC reported. The restaurant is set to celebrate its 100th anniversary in March.
One of the celebrity chefs, Richard Corrigan, who had voiced his support, told the BBC, “Most European cities cherish their legendary restaurants. Why in the name of God would we want to lose Veeraswamy?”
On X, Michael Witbrock, a professor, urged everyone to sign the petition to save Veeraswamy.
An account, @Its_CCHogan, wrote, “When I went in the 60s, they still had ceiling Punkahs. Long gone now”.
Another account shared the restaurant’s old September menu that read dishes of the day. There were two kinds of fare served at the restaurant—English and French fare, and Indian fare, which included Prawn Curry, Murgi, Tarkari ka Salan, and Chapati.
(Edited by Saptak Datta)