Your skin barrier is your body’s first line of defence. Here’s how you can protect it

The topmost part of your epidermis is the skin barrier, aka stratum corneum. If you mess with it, your skin can quickly switch from happy to sandpaper-sad.

Representational image | Commons

Your skin barrier is your body’s largest shield. Think of it as a bouncer—keeping out pollution, UV rays, free radicals, and viruses while preventing enhanced water loss from the body. But what happens if you accidentally irritate it? Here’s all about protecting your protector – what damages it, and what can bring it back to life.

First, let’s understand what the skin barrier is. Your skin has three layers: epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous fat. Epidermis is the top layer, dermis is the middle layer, and subcutaneous fat is the base layer. The topmost part of your epidermis is the skin barrier, aka stratum corneum.

Under a microscope, the stratum corneum resembles a wall, which is why it is colloquially called the ‘skin barrier’. This wall is made up of tightly packed dead skin cells called corneocytes, which are glued together with ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids.

The stratum corneum also houses bacteria and microorganisms, which collectively form a skin microbiome that helps maintain barrier health while protecting against pathogens. If you voluntarily or involuntarily mess with this biome, your skin can quickly switch from happy to sandpaper-sad.

What destroys your skin barrier?

1. Harsh exfoliation:

1. • Using cleansers that strip your skin of its natural oils. That squeaky-clean feeling is not great for your skin.
   • If you’re over-exfoliating with acids or harsh physical scrubs every night, please start preparing a eulogy for your skin.

1. Environmental factors:

1. • UV rays are nobody’s friend. They break down collagen, ultimately weakening the skin barrier and accelerating ageing.
   • Pollution; AQI levels affect more than just your lungs. According to a 2017 review published in the Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venerology and Leprology, “Air pollutants damage the skin by inducing oxidative stress.”
   • Extreme weather changes can cause dryness, itchiness, and sunburn, damaging the outermost layer of your skin.

1. Lifestyle:

1. • Stress, lack of sleep, and a poor diet that consists of processed food, sugars, and not enough protein or healthy fats are going to hurt your skin barrier.
   • Dehydration will show on your skin – in the form of itchiness, flakiness, and rashes.
   • Smoking and alcohol consumption speed up the ageing process and weaken your skin barrier.

1. Medical reasons & medication:

1. • Conditions such as eczema, rosacea and psoriasis are linked to a damaged skin barrier.
   • High alcohol content in hand sanitiser strips your skin of moisture, damaging more than just its topmost layer. Overusing it is never a good idea.
   • Certain medications and topical skincare products, especially those containing steroids or retinoids, can damage your skin barrier if used incorrectly.

How to tell your skin barrier is damaged?

• Dry patches and flaky skin that seem to stick around even after you moisturise.
• Redness and general skin irritation
• Acne breakouts and skin sensitivity
• Itchy and tight-feeling skin
• Dull-looking skin

Ways to keep your skin’s wall up

Hydrate

• Drink water; hydration is the cornerstone of good skin and essential to maintain your overall health.
• Seal in moisture with products that contain ceramides, squalane, and shea butter.
• Use humectants such as hyaluronic acid and glycerine to pull the moisture in.

Say no to harsh everything

• Replace foamy cleansers with gentle, creamy ones that are clinically tested and pH balanced.
• Do not over-exfoliate; limit it to once or twice a week and only use acids such as glycolic acid (in gel form), lactic acid, and azelaic acid. Make sure to start with the lowest concentration and patch test before use. Avoid if you’re pregnant or suffering from a skin condition.
• If you’re looking for gentle physical face scrubs, opt for fuller’s earth or sandalwood powder.
• Ditch those long, steamy showers; they strip your skin of its moisture. Bathe with lukewarm water.

Feed your skin

• Salmon, chia seeds and walnuts are full of Omega-3s that help maintain your skin’s lipid barrier and reduce inflammation.
• Antioxidants are crucial. Vitamin C, E, and green tea help fight free radicals.
• Bone broth is a great source of collagen, while berries and leafy greens support collagen synthesis in the body.

Protect your skin from environmental stressors

• Always use sunscreen. No matter what day or weather, wear sunscreen with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of at least 30.
• If you’re stepping out, keep your skin protected with a hat and shades.
• Use a humidifier in dry climates to prevent moisture loss.

Look for barrier-healing ingredients

• Ceramides will help build your skin’s wall back up.
• Niacinamides will help calm any redness.
• Panthenol (B5) will help soothe and hydrate your skin.
• Centella asiatica, also known as ‘cica’, is great if you have sensitive skin.

Additionally, regular cardio exercise boosts blood circulation, which in turn ensures optimal skin health. Staying moisturised and getting occasional oil massages are all great ways to manage barrier health. With gentle, hydrating products and a dermatologist-approved skincare routine, you can keep your body’s first line of defence strong.

Dr Deepali Bhardwaj is a Consultant Dermatologist, Max Hospital, Saket. She is also an anti-allergy specialist, laser surgeon and internationally trained aesthetician. She tweets @dermatdoc. Views are personal.

(Edited by Zoya Bhatti)