You have heard the common myths about retinol. Here’s what you need to know

Retinol increases cell turnover and promotes new blood vessel growth, which can improve fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone. It’s commonly found in anti-aging creams and serums.

Illustration by Prajna Ghosh | ThePrint

If you are new to skincare or have followed a routine for ages, you have likely encountered retinol. Hailed as the game-changer of skincare, it’s important to understand what retinol is, its benefits, and its limitations.

Retinol is a form of vitamin A used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin-renewing properties. It belongs to the retinoid family, compounds derived from vitamin A. Retinol works by increasing cell turnover, stimulating collagen production, and promoting new blood vessel growth, which can improve fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone. It’s commonly found in anti-aging creams, serums, and other skincare products.

Over-the-counter retinol products contain lower concentrations than prescription-strength retinoids like tretinoin. While OTC retinol may take longer to show results, it’s generally gentler and may be better tolerated by those with sensitive skin. However, it’s still important to use it as directed, as retinol can cause irritation, dryness, and increased sun sensitivity.

Myths about Retinol: Busted

Skin thinning: Initially, some skin peeling may occur, which leads people to believe that retinol causes skin thinning. In fact, it’s the opposite—collagen production thickens the skin, countering the thinning effects of aging.

Only for the face: While we start skincare routines on our faces, it’s equally important to care for the neck, hands, and legs. Retinol body lotions or serums are valuable additions.

Great for every skin type: While generally true, those with sensitive skin conditions like rosacea should avoid retinol unless directed by a dermatologist. Proper sun protection is also essential after retinol use, as it increases sun sensitivity. If you’re not going to lather up the sunscreen right after, avoid retinol.

Immediate effect: Retinol is often used alongside toners, hyaluronic acid, and moisturisers, which can improve your skin’s appearance, making it look healthy, fresh, and young. This leads people to assume that the transformation will be quick. In reality, it can take up to six months of consistent retinol use to get that glow you were imagining.

All retinols are the same: Prescription retinols can be up to 20 times more potent than over-the-counter creams. The former should only be used under the guidance of a dermatologist, with dosage and frequency adjusted for individual skin profiles.

Meant for older people: The initial use of retinol was for young people with acne issues. However, after several studies showed its anti-aging benefits, it began to be marketed as such. It’s why in the zeitgeist of skincare, retinol fits into anti-aging. But it can be beneficial across all ages.

A few things to keep in mind

Start slow: Begin by using it once or twice a week to see how your skin reacts. You can gradually increase the frequency if your skin tolerates it well.

Use sunscreen: Retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s essential to use sunscreen daily.

Moisturise: Retinol can be drying, so make sure to moisturise your skin regularly.

Consult a dermatologist: If you’re unsure whether retinol is suitable for your skin type or if you have any skin concerns, it’s best to consult a dermatologist before starting any new skincare product.

If you’re looking to address specific skincare concerns like fine lines, wrinkles, or uneven skin tone, and you don’t have particularly sensitive skin, incorporating retinol into your skincare routine could be beneficial.

Dr Deepali Bhardwaj is a Consultant Dermatologist, Max Hospital, Saket. She is also an anti-allergy specialist, laser surgeon and internationally trained aesthetician. She tweets @dermatdoc. Views are personal.

(Edited by Prashant)