Tourists are likely to be allowed into the “forbidden zones” of Ladakh in the near future. Ladakh was opened to tourists back in the 1970s, but even today they are allowed only up to Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri lakes in Eastern Ladakh. The number of roads they can use are also restricted. According to a Times of India report, as a first step, the Chang Chenmo Sector is likely to be opened for tourism in a gradual manner. To begin with, visitors will be allowed to go via Marsimik La (pass) to Tsogtsalu, 214 km from Leh. In Phase 2, the tourists will be allowed up to Hot Springs and Karam Singh Memorial.
It is presumed that border areas in Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh are also likely to be opened up for tourism. Like Ladakh, in these states too tourism has been restricted mostly to habited areas and three to four passes on the Line of Actual Control (LAC). In Himachal Pradesh, the border remains out of bounds for tourists. Visitors to Mansarovar transit through Lipulekh pass on the LAC in Uttarakhand as part of the government–controlled Yatra. In Sikkim, Indian visitors are allowed to visit Nathu La pass. In Arunachal Pradesh, only Bum La pass on the LAC is open for Indian tourists. Religious visits are allowed for local people to Chumi Gyatse, colloquially referred to as the ‘Holy Waterfalls.
I analyse the reasons for not allowing tourists to border areas and why there is an urgent need to open up the borders to develop and safeguard them.
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Reasons, why?
There are three reasons for restricting the access of the public and tourists to border areas. Lack of roads and infrastructure certainly has been a factor until a decade ago. To begin with, it was a deliberate policy to deny roads to a superior adversary. In 2007, on the recommendations of the China Study Group, it was decided to develop roads right up to the LAC except in some sensitive areas. After a lethargic beginning, the development of border roads was given top priority by the BJP government starting 2014. This was one of the reasons for the Chinese incursions in May 2020. Since then, border roads have been under development on war footing.
The Zozi La pass and Shinku La pass tunnels in next two years will give all-weather connectivity to Leh. East of Leh, all-weather roads have been constructed to DBO, Galwan Valley Chang Chenmo Sector, north of Pangong Tso up to Finger 4, Ane La, Kailash Range, Demchok, Umling La, Imis La and Chumar. All these roads are now interlinked by multiple lateral roads. A 2,000 km high–altitude journey by road can be undertaken from Manali to Eastern Ladakh and back without repeating a road except for the 100 km stretch from Manali to Darcha. If lateral roads are used to explore the area, the trip will cover 3,000 km, making it one of the most adventurous circuits in the world.
Similarly, the entire border in Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh has been connected by roads. The under-construction Sela Pass tunnel will give an all-weather access to Tawang. Strategic rail links are also planned to Ladakh and Arunachal Pradesh. Tourism infrastructure development is contingent on government policy and public, and private investment. The latter is driven by commerce. I see no reason why world-class tourism infrastructure cannot be developed and commercialised in a few years once the borders are opened-up.
The second reason advanced over the years has been the sensitivity of China. This is not justifiable in Ladakh as the Chinese claim has been restricted to the 1959 Claim Line, which they now hold in all areas except the Indus Valley. In Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand, the borders are well settled and recognised by China except the Barahoti area. Chinese may be sensitive to Arunachal Pradesh but since 2020, it is no longer relevant. Both countries are holding the border in strength. Probability of war is low due to nuclear weapons and uncertain outcomes. China cannot do anything worse than what it has already done.
The third reason is the obsession with security and the colonial practice of “inner line permits”. What is there to hide from our own public? Military areas can always be restricted. Trans border movement can be checked by police and ITBP. In any case, deployment of armed forces is visible to the knowledgeable through open-source satellite imagery. If we can fight wars with the support of the public in the rest of the country then why not on the northern borders with China?
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Open up the borders
Territorial integrity is best safeguarded by development, civic infrastructure, settlements and footfall of tourists. China has been following this policy for a decade. In 2015, President Xi Jinping had said,“Governing border areas is the key for governing a country, and stabilising Tibet.” $4.6 billion was allocated in 2017 to revitalise its border area, part which included construction of 624 ‘Xiaokang’ (well-off) border villages. More such villages are under construction. In 2021, China passed the Land Border Law, which apart from reassertion of sovereignty over disputed territory, stipulates that the state shall “promote coordination between border defense and social, economic development in border areas.”
India’s Border Area Development Programme (BADP) under the Ministry of Home Affairs has been operational since 1986-87 for the security and well-being of its border population. However, development has been marred by inadequate budget allotment and tardy execution. For example, BADP budget was halved from Rs 1,100 crore in FY18 to Rs 565.72 crore in FY23 — and further slashed to a dismal Rs 221.61 crore that year. In Budget 2022-2023 Vibrant Village Programme (VVP) was announced specifically for the northern borders. VVP finally seems to have taken off with Home Minister Amit Shah inaugurating the first village at Kibithoo.
BADP and its sub-project, the VVP, cannot be faulted on concept. Each village will be connected by road with all civic facilities. It will showcase local culture and will make them economically self-reliant. Tourism will be an intrinsic part of the village and regional economy. Himalayan borders will require 500-600 such villages.
A unique opportunity beckons India. The belt of 100-150 km along the 3,888 km-long border with China has unparalleled scenic grandeur and is a virgin territory for tourists. This is equivalent to 10 Switzerlands in an area that can attract visitors with its beauty. A master plan must be made by the central government and the governments of the four states and one UT for development with special focus on tourism. Invite public and international participation to create state of the art tourism infrastructure. I see no reason as to why this region should not become the tourism capital of the world. The government should set the ball rolling by declaring the border region open for tourism.
Lt Gen H S Panag PVSM, AVSM (R) served in the Indian Army for 40 years. He was GOC in C Northern Command and Central Command. Post retirement, he was Member of Armed Forces Tribunal. Views are personal.
(Edited by Anurag Chaubey)