Watch any Sanjay Leela Bhansali film and pause it. You’ll notice that something about the frame instantly jumps out: Be it Madhuri Dixit’s iconic emerald and gold ghagra as she sings ‘maar dala’, or Aishwarya Rai’s ice-blue lehenga in ‘nimbooda nimbooda’. For the audience, costumes in Bhansali movies are usually the wedding flavour of the season. Everyone wants a replica.
In his latest film Gangubai Kathiawadi too, Bhansali’s costume designer, Sheetal Sharma, weaves magic with white. From khadi to chikankari sarees, paired with quarter sleeved-blouses — ranging from a basic back to polka-dot high neck ones — the magnificence of white is inescapable.
Tide advertisements made a big splash, especially in the 2000s, with: ‘Tide hai toh white hai’, stressing the pristineness of white as the desirable quality. Even in Rin or Nirma, the women who appear for the brands, wear white sarees or salwar kurtas. But white has more or less remained as an acid test for how well a detergent cleans clothes.
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Iconic white costume moments in Bollywood
Who can really forget Madhuri Dixit creating a fashion breakthrough with her salwar suits in Dil To Pagal Hai (1997)? Her halter neck to Anarkali salwar kameez in white created a buzz that was soon picked up by almost everyone in the 90s. Despite Karisma Kapoor getting the ‘glam end’ of the movie, it was Madhuri’s fashion that was accessible and ‘do-able’ in the 90s, by metropolitan cities and small towns alike.
Two years later, it was the outfits worn by Aishwarya Rai in Taal (1999) that captured the imagination of the Indian audience. From the white lehenga set in ‘taal se taal mila’ to the iconic co-ords in satin worn by her in ‘ramta jogi’, paired with a chunky necklace and silver bangles, the ensemble that designer Neeta Lulla created was a fashion high point.
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Adding a layer of sensuality to white was Priyanka Chopra’s iconic outfit from ‘ram chahe leela’ from Bhansali’s Goliyon Ki Raasleela Ram-Leela (2013). The low cut blouse and draped dhoti became a signature as the song became wildly popular.
With Reels and YouTubers recreating the dance, the outfit became popular among content creators.
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White in the fashion industry and culture
Despite whites being linked with ‘purity’ and also virginity in a cultural context, it is seen or considered as a ‘not-so-appealing’ colour palette for fashion ensembles. In Hindu weddings, at least, wearing a white outfit might not be banned, but it would definitely be frowned upon and considered an ‘abshagun’. However, there are exceptions in certain cultures. In Assam and Kerala, for instance, white sarees are the traditional bridal wear. Even in Gujarat and Bengal, red and white sarees are the norm. But sometimes Bollywood celebrities opt for an all-white look/ensemble only in prayer meetings or funerals, with the notable exception being, of course, the iconic Abbas–Mustan duo.
On top of that is the connotation of ‘am I looking fat’ in white? Most fashion ‘gurus’ would ask/advise women to opt for blacks to look ‘slimmer’ and avoid whites if they do not wish to draw attention to their ‘flab’. As such, its audience becomes limited.
With very limited sartorial choices available in white, women do not necessarily opt for the colour or even add splashes of it to the ensemble. Gangubai’s outfits in the film, often white on white, stand out not just for looking gracious, but also for being wearable.
Most Bollywood or runway fashion ensembles are not wearable on, let’s say, a friend’s birthday party, a family get-together or even the office. But the looks from the film are suited to everything, from a night out with friends in sarees, to even dancing Garba, as the film shows.
Alia Bhatt herself opted for a variety of white outfits for all the promotional events for Gangubai Kathiawadi. Keeping it minimalist and comfortable, the actress showed that there is a white for literally every occasion.
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Deepika Padukone too, in her latest appearance at the success party of Gehraiyaan, opted for an all-white ensemble featuring a corset and ripped, white denim pants.
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Maybe it is time for both Gangubai and white to claim their spaces in the ‘conventional’ world and be the boss of fashion in 2022.
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(Edited by Srinjoy Dey)