Haleem hopping in Hyderabad—why Ramzan is worth every sleepless night in this Telangana city

From sizzling Pathar ka Gosht to late-night Sehri, Hyderabad’s Ramzan food scene turns the city into a vibrant, sleepless haven for food lovers.

Pathar ka Gosht being prepared at a bustling street stall, a Ramzan staple for Hyderabadis | Photo: Yunus Lasania | ThePrint

There is a distinct change in Hyderabad’s environs when the month of Ramzan begins. There is, of course, religious fervour among Muslims, whose body clocks change due to the 30-day fasting that many choose to observe during the holy month.

But a more transformative process takes hold of the city even before Ramzan begins, primarily reflected in Hyderabad’s food scene, which gains an entirely new layer of delicious options for the month. While shopping is a common activity, the ever-evolving food culture has now become the main attraction.

The most obvious highlight is, of course, Haleem, which has become an obsession for Hyderabadis during Ramzan. A meat-lentil dish that originated in the 1940s through Irani cafes, Haleem is something we all wait for each year. Its increasing cost—with mutton Haleem now priced at nearly Rs 300—doesn’t seem to deter the hungry souls.

From traditional Irani restaurants like Grand Hotel to popular joints in the Old City like Nayab Hotel, ‘Haleem hopping’ has become one of those things that everyone now does to try various places to rate the best version of the dish.

But over the last decade or so, the food scene has gone beyond Haleem. Other Hyderabadi dishes like Marag (creamy mutton stew) and Pathar Ka Gosht, which are otherwise not easily available in most restaurants, now almost parallel Haleem in terms of popularity. This is thanks to the roadside stalls that pop up in the Old City and elsewhere during Ramzan, attracting people who would have never ventured into crowded areas before.

Pathar ka Gosht sizzling on a roadside stall in Hyderabad’s Old City during Ramzan nights | Photo: Yunus Lasania | ThePrint

I remember as a child visiting Pista House, which popularised Haleem and turned it into a commercial success, in the Old City by car. Leave alone a car, Today, forget about driving, even walking on the main thoroughfare leading to Charminar is nearly impossible at night during Ramzan. It is an adventure only for the brave and the food-obsessed.

Hyderabad’s Ramzan food scene is enjoyed by all

What’s heartening is that Ramzan is a time when every Hyderabadi, regardless of religion, makes it a point to immerse themselves in the thriving food culture. Even people from the IT sector, who may have never explored the Old City, come for the experience to simply see a different side of Hyderabad.

Given that the government allows establishments to remain open all night during Ramzan, late-night strolls to Charminar have become a must. I call it local tourism, especially for those new to Hyderabad. Many people also discover Sehri—the pre-dawn meal before fasting—late in the night as another option of trying out something ‘new’. Unlike the usual Biryani or Haleem, Sehri includes traditional household dishes like Khichdi Khatta-Kheema, which restaurants serve as an option. Of course there are kebabs et all, but it is an entirely new menu that many taste for the first time.

For many, the night isn’t complete without a cup of Irani Chai at Nimrah Cafe, right outside the 16th century Charminar. But if you ask me, finding good food and sharing an unforgettable experience is what it is all about. In all my years visiting the Old City for food during Ramzan, I have seen as many non-Muslims as Muslims out and about for the feast.

Of course, for those who don’t want to venture into the Old City, Tolichowki, already famous for its vibrant food scene, now pretty much has its own thing going in terms of food. By the third week of Ramzan, the main road of Tolichowki is choc-a-bloc with temporary food stalls. Given that Tolichowki is closer to the Hitec City, it has become a good option for people.

Unlike Delhi, Hyderabad’s Old City is much larger—encompassing the entire south zone of GHMC—and has always been an area that does not sleep during Ramzan. The city’s clock gets reversed for a month, and losing a night or two of sleep for the gastronomical experience is absolutely worth it.

Yunus Lasania is a Hyderabad-based journalist whose work primarily focuses on politics, history and culture. He tweets @YunusLasania. Views are personal.

(Edited by Prashant)