Beating Retreat post Pahalgam a lot quieter. Soldiers still march in sync, but not face-to-face

The gates at Attari-Wagah border that used to open symbolically every evening—sometimes even for the exchange of sweets on festivals—are now firmly shut.

Following the terror attack in Pahalgam on 22 April, the traditional handshake between personnel of India’s BSF and Pakistan Rangers during the Attari-Wagah border ceremony was suspended | File photo: BSF personnel performing during the Beating Retreat ceremony

Amritsar: Two months after planning a dream visit to witness the grand Beating Retreat ceremony at the Attari-Wagah border, Smita Singh and Bharat Singh flew to Amritsar all the way from Bengaluru. But when they reached Attari this weekend, it felt incomplete.

“The ceremony was amazing, no doubt,” said Bharat, clutching a newly bought fridge magnet depicting the Indian Tricolour. “But with the gates closed and our soldiers not marching directly in front of Pakistan’s… that feeling is missing.”

Following the terror attack in Pahalgam on 22 April in which at least 26 were killed, India announced a series of retaliatory measures against Pakistan last week. Among them was the closure of the Wagah gate during the daily flag-lowering ceremony, suspension of the traditional handshake between personnel of India’s Border Security Force (BSF) and Pakistan Rangers, and the cancellation of all Pakistani visas.

The gates that used to open symbolically every evening—sometimes even for the exchange of sweets on festivals—are now firmly shut.

The parade continues, but Indian soldiers now march and perform drills without facing their counterparts from across the border. The Pakistani side also remains quieter, with fewer chants from the crowd.

“There was a time when you could hear slogans bouncing back and forth from both sides,” said a senior BSF officer posted at the border, requesting anonymity. “Now, we raise our voices alone. It’s more about inner pride than competition now.”

The fierce—but subtly friendly—standoff between the soldiers of the two nations used to attract several spectators every evening. The tourists are still turning up in large numbers, but leaving with mixed emotions.

“We expected some action across the gate, too. It’s a little strange to see it locked, but we also feel proud that India is standing strong,” said Ritu Yogi, who was visiting from Jaipur, as she waved a miniature Indian flag.

“The spirit is always high, but the emotion is heavier,” said a young soldier after finishing the evening drill. “Earlier, there was a sense of informal sportsmanship, too. Now it’s strictly about discipline, about reminding the world where we stand.”

For local shopkeepers near Attari, the closure has had subtle ripple effects. But “patriotism” runs deeper than profit here. Rajveer Gill, who runs a souvenir stall near the border, said, “It is a very small cost for what happened in Pahalgam. If our government has taken a decision, we will follow it. We don’t have any problem with it.”

The government’s other major steps, including holding Indus Waters Treaty in abeyance and halting cross-border transport, have sent a clear diplomatic signal, but on the ground, it is the daily rhythms of border life that have changed most visibly.

Even as chants of “Bharat Mata ki Jai” fill the air, there is a notable absence of competition from across the border. The crowds still cheer, the soldiers still march in perfect sync, and flags still lower at sunset with the same grandeur. But the Attari-Wagah border, which used to be enveloped by fiery pride and fleeting friendliness, now bears a heavier silence.

(Edited by Mannat Chugh)