Darjeeling: Darjeeling evokes images of rolling green hills shrouded in silvery mist, redolent with the scent of delicate tea leaves. Of grand estate houses with gleaming teak wood and chandeliers reminiscent of a long-gone colonial era. Today, more and more owners of tea gardens as well as big hospitality players have started opening their doors to tourists who want to experience the decadent life of a Darjeeling tea estate owner. Tea-cations have become all the rage in the city and beyond.
“Is there a better way to experience the champagne of tea while staying at a tea garden as beautiful as this?” exclaims Namit Kapoor, 45, who fled the Gurugram heat with his wife and two children in April to holiday in Darjeeling. The family had checked themselves into the Taj Chia Kutir Spa & Resorts within Kurseong’s historic Makai Bari tea estate, which was founded in 1859 and is home to the world’s first tea factory.
A niche clientele exists
In April 2023, the Makai Bari tea estate hosted a G20 tourism track meeting where delegates plucked tea leaves and sipped on Silver Tips Imperial, one of the world’s most expensive teas at Rs 1.1 lakh per kg.
The event follows the West Bengal government’s bid to commercialise tea tourism in the state and permit owners to construct hotels or convert a portion of their property into homestays under the Tea Tourism and Allied Business Policy 2019. The move was aimed at not only attracting well-heeled tourists to the popular hill station but also create more jobs and give tea garden owners an opportunity to create alternative sources of income.
The government stated that 15 per cent of the total grant area (to a maximum of 150 acres) can be redeveloped without compromising the plantation. This was reiterated in a 2022 notification. Additionally, tea estate managers will not be allowed to reduce plantation areas or cut down the workforce to accommodate hotels or homestays. The government also made it mandatory for new project owners within the tea gardens to hire 80 per cent of their workforce from within the local community.
“Tea tourism is gaining strength in West Bengal; it’s got a niche clientele. Earlier, one could stay at a tea estate only through references. Tea tourism is an experimental travel experience, an immersive one where people pay for luxury, amenities that match the price,” says Manav Soni of the Travel Agents Association of India (TAAI).
While Darjeeling has always been a popular hill station for tourists across the spectrum, tea tourism is targeting only premium customers. Tea trails, leaf picking, personalised tastings, and spa sessions are just some of the add-ons that resorts are offering. A package for two nights and three days begins at Rs 10,000 per person but can go up to a lakh — in case tourists want to book an entire villa that could be shared by 10 people, says Soni.
Hospitality industry onboard
Paralleling the government’s enthusiasm, the hospitality sector, too, is bullish about tea tourism in Darjeeling. The Tata Group’s Indian Hotels Company Ltd to ITC as well as mid-segment players — all have reportedly shown interest in opening hotels in the city.
Taj Chia Kutir opened its doors to tourists two years ago. On the five-acre property within Makai Bari stands a grand resort with 72 rooms, all offering glorious views of the tea plantation. Standard rates start at Rs 20,000 a day and can go up to Rs 80,000. General manager Jitendra Singh Lote claims that since the resort’s opening, bookings have been sold out most of the time.
“The five acres is minimalistic yet aesthetically designed to highlight the natural beauty around us,” he says.
In the tea lounge, Parvez Hussain, a tea sommelier, waits for guests to seat themselves on armchairs before elaborating on the different flushes of tea. He goes into detail about Darjeeling tea and its history. Guests taste different brews while Parvez elaborates on the tea-plucking process and the significance of the flush.
“Makaibari is one of the most popular tea gardens worldwide. And bringing the Taj Group onboard helped the brand recall in a greater way,” says Harshvardhan Neotia, chief of Ambuja Neotia Group, which owns the property on which Chia Kutir stands. “Our experience has been positive in terms of guest response. Travellers experience the local culture, and we have retained most of the tea garden and used only a meniscal portion of the 1000-acre tea garden.”
In the last three years alone, many villas and homestays have come up in tea gardens.
The West Bengal government has already received 16 proposals from private players to develop tourism and related businesses in tea gardens in Darjeeling and the hills of Terai and Dooars. Taken together, it’s a combined investment of Rs 1,400 crore, with the potential of creating more than 4,500 jobs, according to a report in The Telegraph.
Neighbouring Assam is also exploring potential tourism opportunities, with the Himanta Biswa Sarma government, in its 2022-23 budget, earmarking Rs 50 crore to build guest houses and facilities in some tea gardens.
“Tea tourism will gain more popularity in the coming days, especially for foreign tourists, now that travel bans have been lifted. More social media outreach will further advertise these properties across the country as well as abroad,” adds Soni.
Restoring an old tradition
Not all resorts in Darjeeling are new constructions, though. During the British era, tea garden managers would live in sprawling bungalows with their families. The manager’s estate used to be grand sites with teakwood furniture, chandeliers, and butlers. After Independence, many such bungalows lost their sheen and fell into disrepair due to lack of funds.
These bungalows are now being converted into homestays within the tea estate. Here, one wakes up in a tea valley to the sound of birds, away from the hustle and bustle of hill stations.
Another popular getaway is the Glenburn Tea Estate, which offers visitors a chance to connect with nature. Tourists can pick a bungalow within the estate and explore the surrounding Simbong Forest through the Rung Dung River and trek through Badamtam forest.
Established by a Scottish tea company in 1859, Glenburn was restored in 2002 and offers eight suites in two bungalows with different views. None of the rooms have televisions; guests indulge in various activities such as fishing, hiking, and camping. Staying costs start at Rs 28,000 per person and go up to Rs 45,000 per night for double occupancy with additional taxes.
The government is exploring even newer ways to bring in revenue via tourism. West Bengal tourism minister Babul Supriyo says that he would be “visiting the hills soon” for new initiatives that are in the pipeline. “New trekking routes are also being identified. I am going through reports, and we will make the process extremely seamless for tourists, especially those travelling from outside Bengal to travel comfortably in Darjeeling. Trails for walking, motorcycles, cars are also being worked out,” he says.
Luxury is the name of the game—to experience, even for a few days, what life is like to the manor born.
(Edited by Humra Laeeq)