New Delhi: Nearly two decades after stars Hrithik Roshan and Aishwarya Rai wore them in Jodha Akbar, its costumes continue to be aspirational even today, said costume designer Neeta Lulla. Aishwarya’s wedding lehenga from the 2008 film has become the first Indian outfit to get featured in The Academy Museum.
“They are a benchmark in grandeur clothing,” said Lulla.
The 59-year-old, who was often referred to as a costume technician by Yash Chopra, is elated by the recognition and love coming her way. But, she credits social media.
“Digital platforms deserve credit for bringing renewed attention to the work done before the digital era,” she said.
The last time Indian costumes got recognition at The Academy was in 1983, when the legendary Bhanu Athaiya (1929–2020) became the first Indian to bag an Oscar for Best Costume Design for the film Gandhi, sharing the honour with John Mollo.
On Instagram, the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences shared a clip from the film, with a caption reading: “A lehenga fit for a queen, designed for the silver screen. In JODHA AKBAR (2008), Aishwarya Rai Bachchan’s red wedding lehenga is a feast for the eyes: vibrant zardozi embroidery, centuries-old craftsmanship, and a hidden gem—quite literally.”
“Neeta Lulla didn’t design a costume; she crafted a legacy. Step into history (and color) at the Academy Museum’s COLOR IN MOTION exhibition,” they added.
Designed by Lulla, the lehenga is a prime example of the finest of Indian craftsmanship. It has intricate zardozi embroidery, a centuries-old art of sewing elaborate patterns with metal threads. Adding to its uniqueness is a hidden gem—a peacock, India’s national bird, crafted with shimmering jewels.
“Indian craftsmanship has long been appreciated,” Lulla explained. “International designers have always sourced embroideries and silk fabrics from India. The lack of recognition earlier wasn’t due to the quality but the absence of social media to amplify it.”
She noted that Indian fashion was rarely discussed back then, but things started shifting in the late ’90s and early 2000s, as people realised even Western designers were sourcing from India.
“Now, it’s heartening to see even Gen Z proudly celebrating Indian craftsmanship,” she added, highlighting the growing pride in traditional artistry.
Lulla, famous for her costume designs in Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam and Devdas, revealed that Jodhaa Akbar marked a significant milestone in her career—it was the first time she took charge of an entire film’s wardrobe.
The project was monumental, involving over 2,400 costumes and a dedicated nine-month effort. She had a team of 200 craftsmen meticulously working on the intricate embroideries.
“I’m grateful to have worked on this film, and I’m deeply thankful to Ashutosh Gowariker for trusting my vision for the costumes,” she said.
She also emphasised the need for greater recognition of iconic works from the past: “There’s a lot of brilliant, historic craftsmanship out there, and while the digital medium has started showcasing it, there’s still much more to be done.”
(Edited by Anurag Chaubey)
Well she would know. After all, she is a Lulla.