Gurugram: The chef tosses marinated chicken, filling for Banh Mi, onto a sizzling pan. The smell wafts through the kitchen’s open window and envelopes the dining hall of a Gurugram home. Sitting at the eight-seater table isn’t a group of friends or family. They’re paying customers.
Dhruv Kalra and his wife Trang Quynh Nguyen run Vietnam-Ease Càphê from their living room. It’s a pop-up, open exclusively for pre-booked events with a small group. It’s a fleeting culinary cameo—a temporary restaurant that is ‘here today, gone tomorrow’.
Unlike traditional brick-and-mortar eateries that demand hefty investments, pop-ups cut through the red tape with agility. It’s the next new thing after concrete and cloud-kitchens. It’s a newly minted work-from-home version for independent chefs. With just about eight to 10 seats available per event, these dining spectacles command prices ranging from Rs 1,800 to a jaw-dropping Rs 1 lakh per seat—turning them into aspirational indulgences for those who are on a lookout for extraordinary.
Eating out in Delhi has become too predictable. Cafés and restaurants? Been there, done that. Delhiites now crave immersive experiences that feel special, intimate, and a little elusive—exactly what pop-ups bring to the table. More than just a meal, pop-ups also offer bite-sized lessons in cultures, cuisines and the cartography of food.
You won’t find these culinary gems on Swiggy or Zomato, and forget about last-minute bookings. No wading through rush-hour traffic and dealing with parking headaches. Securing a seat at a pop-up is like getting into an exclusive secret society—you need to plan ahead, and even then, seats vanish faster than you can say “reservations closed”. No splashy ads, no influencer marketing—just pure, unfiltered word-of-mouth magic.
Kalra and Nguyen’s Vietnamese venture is part of a growing wave driving the rise of pop-ups across India.
“The concept is still in its early stages, appealing to a niche audience. One day, we host board meetings; the next, it’s bridal showers,” said Kalra.
As the Banh Mi, a Vietnamese sandwich, hits the table, Kalra begins: “When the French left Vietnam in the 1950s, they left behind their culinary heritage in the form of Pate, breads and cold cuts. And, that’s how it became what it is today.”
While some diners have follow up questions, most just dig right in to the food.
“FOMO (fear of missing out) has become a massive phenomenon, especially among the Delhi audience. Instagram has of course added to it. People don’t want to be left out at any cost,” said Atul Tiwari, executive assistant manager of food and beverage at The Leela Palace, New Delhi.
The story behind the food
Years before pop-ups became a buzzword in India, 65-year-old Sharmila Sinha opened her homes to the curious diners. She is among the pioneers of the trend.
Sinha—a writer specialising in environmental education—was inclined towards cooking as a child. “But, it doesn’t pay bills. Writing does,” she said.
She accidentally stumbled into the space of pop-ups in 2013, when a friend asked her to host an authentic Indian dinner for international guests. A simple restaurant wouldn’t do as they were also interested in the historical anecdotes about the dishes too. And Sinha went above and beyond.
“I took the group out for a visit to the market and brought back lauki (bottle gourd) and made it for them. They also visited the fish and vegetable market. These visits are also part of the pop up. It is essential to acquaint diners with the food that they eat,” she said.
Tomato chutney infused with mango ginger (aam ada in Bengali), a stir fry of bottle gourd and sweet potato kheer were highlights of her 2013 menu. “The dinner was a success. My friends left, but the concept stayed with me,” Sinha recalled.
By 2018, she officially launched Luchee Food Story, hosting exclusive pop-up dinners once a month at her CR Park residence. And Sinha doesn’t advertise at all. The eight to 10 member guest list is carefully curated. Bookings come months in advance. No last minute entries are permitted.
“It’s not just about the money—it’s aspirational because it’s a rare experience, happening once in a blue moon. It’s unique because of the dining journey I create,” she said.
Sinha’s events are more than just meals; they are immersive explorations of Bengali culture.
“I want people to appreciate the nutrient-rich greens that grow wild in our gamlas [flower pots] and the rustic yet nourishing dishes of rural Bengal, many of which our domestic workers have mastered,” Sinha said.
For her, the mission is twofold: empowering domestic workers to take pride in their culinary traditions, while encouraging diners to appreciate the understated richness of rustic food.
For instance, paturi or patra stuffed with flat beans, elephant apple chutney, fruits wrapped in grape leaves, and crepes with green pea filling are some traditional dishes that, according to Sinha, have been “forgotten”.
“I envision building a community of domestic workers who rediscover their heritage recipes and serve them with pride,” she said.
Sinha’s philosophy highlights a larger trend—regional food pop-ups are thriving as they offer a personalised alternative to mass-produced meals.
“These dining experiences emphasise fresh ingredients, traditional recipes, and the warmth of home-cooked food, creating a strong emotional connection with diners,” said Delhi-based home chef Rohini Kaul.
Kaul, who led the communication teams at companies like American Express and HSBC, swapped the corporate world for the kitchen. Specialising in Kashmiri cuisine steeped in family traditions, she has hosted numerous pop-ups across Delhi NCR.
From the Panchsheel Club and NDMC Flower & Food Festival to curated experiences like the Kong Posh Chef’s Table, Kaul’s events are a hit.
Her signature dishes are chicken yakhni, matsch (minced goat meat kofta), Jammu rajma chawal, dum aloo, nadur mond (lotus stem kebab), Kashmiri breads, rogan josh, and kahwa. They’re priced between Rs 300 and Rs 500 per dish—or Rs 1,000 to Rs 1,500 per head for curated events.
“Many customers who’ve experienced the food at pop-ups return for more or refer others. I don’t advertise. It’s all word-of-mouth,” Kaul said. “Pop-ups offer us, home chefs, an excellent platform for direct interaction, real-time feedback, and creative expression.”
For chefs like Sinha and Kaul, these pop-ups aren’t just about food; they’re about creating experiences that linger long after the meal is over.
Also read: These chefs are done taking orders. They’re turning entrepreneurs
A stepping stone
Lawyer-turned-chef, Pragati Mitta goes by the playful moniker ‘Legally-Delicious’ on Instagram. She helmed the hot kitchens at Delhi’s Ek Baar and L’Opera, before moving to Hyderabad to be closer to her family. There, she worked as a food consultant, training staff, curating menus, and ensuring quality control for established restaurants.
But Mitta’s dream of running her own restaurant was bogged down by high risks and steeper costs. Unwilling to let go, she started The Long Table in June last year, a stepping stone toward her vision of celebrating fusion cuisine.
“Inspired by the world-famous Vietnamese coffee, this dessert captures the essence of a deeply ingrained coffee culture,” said Mitta as she brought out the dessert to diners gathered at her house in Hyderabad’s Begumpet. It’s part of her ongoing Viet-Thai menu.
Giving a historic background and the alternate ingredients and variations of a dish is part of the experience that Mitta brings to the table.
The Long Table began with a Mango Edition menu. It featured refreshing mango iced tea and crispy rice paired with totapuri, to a mille feuille served with mango shrikhand and aam papad.
Her Viet-Thai menu, available every Friday night and Saturday afternoon, is a nine-course experience that lasts about two to two and a half hours. The vegan menu is priced at Rs 2,750 and Rs 2,950 for a meat-based menu.
“I walk diners through the history and inspiration behind every dish,” Mitta said. “It’s not just about feeding people; it’s about educating them to be more mindful of what’s on their plate, creating a deeper connection with the food.”
Much like Mitta, Kalra and Nguyen are driven by a shared culinary passion.
They run their Vietnamese food pop-up from their 20-year-old home. But, it’s not just the food they serve. It’s an experience. The second-floor dining room of their house, with its dragon-themed decor, Vietnamese-style cushions, and cutlery, transports you to a Vietnamese household.
After scouring the Delhi NCR food scene for authentic Vietnamese cuisine, Nguyen discovered it was a rare gem. Outside of spots like Little Saigon, most Vietnamese dishes were often disguised as generic Pan-Asian offerings.
“The Delhi-fication of traditional food doesn’t always do it justice,” Kalra said. “Some diners expect that spicy, tangy punch, which isn’t true to Vietnamese cuisine. Therefore, we didn’t rush into starting a restaurant.”
The couple also operates a cloud kitchen, delivering Vietnamese meals across Delhi NCR. Their lean team of three consists of Kalra, his wife, and a chef.
While Kalra handles the business side, Nguyen oversees the cooking, relying on family recipes passed down through generations.
The couple also does pop-ups at art fairs and other fests but are in no hurry to conquer the restaurant scene of Delhi NCR. “We are focusing on quality not quantity of diners,” said Nguyen, but added that they have plans to launch a restaurant by the end of the year.
Capitalising on FOMO
For chefs, pop-ups are a canvas to showcase their culinary skills and experiment with ideas, but for diners, it’s all about the experience.
They’re willing to splurge for the chance to stay on top of the trends and be part of something new.
“Delhi craves something new… they don’t want a random dining experience, they are always looking for exciting things,” said Tiwari, EAM at The Leela Palace, New Delhi. “Delhi is still not London or New York. It doesn’t have 20-25 well-established restaurants that promise a wonderful evening. And, chef-driven restaurants are still scarce.”
That’s why 5-star hotels and fine dining restaurants play host to celebrity chefs. Last November, Sheraton Grand in Bengaluru held a two-day pop-up by Australian MasterChef winner, Sashi Cheliah. Dharshan Munidasa of Ministry of Crab, Sri Lanka has done one at Four Seasons Hotel in Mumbai, Chef Garima Arora did a takeover of Mumbai’s Masque and Chef Marc Bayon at Le Bistro du Parc in Delh.
Tiwari’s phone barely stopped buzzing during the two-day pop-up with chef Massimo Bottura. The genius behind the three Michelin star Osteria Francescana, twice crowned World’s Best Restaurant by The World’s 50 Best, returned to New Delhi in 2024. After a wildly successful showcase in 2023, Bottura brought the magic of his Modena restaurant to life at The Leela Palace on 19 and 20 April last year.
The 70-seater pop-up was the talk of the town. The who’s who of Delhi filled every seat, paying over a lakh per head—including wine—for the experience.
“And I still had a waitlist of 100 people,” Tiwari said. “They kept calling, hoping for a last-minute cancellation.”
Food writer and industry expert Sourish Bhattacharya recalled an interesting insight from a recent conversation with entrepreneur Raaj Sanghvi about why people are willing to spend heavily on dining experiences.
“His response was simple: ‘This audience is the type that travels the world to visit the top 50 restaurants. But getting a reservation isn’t easy—it often takes 2-3 days. Add in the cost of flights, accommodations, and the whole vacation, and it’s a significant expense. Now, when the same chef brings that experience to their city, they’re getting the same food at a fraction of the total cost’,” Bhattacharya said.
Even with each seat priced at nearly a lakh, Tiwari revealed that the hotel’s profit overall was merely Rs 6,000. Yet, bringing Massimo Bottura to Delhi proved to be a masterstroke for The Leela Palace.
“For an entire week, the hotel was buzzing on social media,” Tiwari said. “Anyone planning a trip to Delhi and undecided about where to stay was instantly drawn to us. The result was a surge in room bookings.”
(Edited by Theres Sudeep)